Chris and I touched down at the Oliver Thambo International Airport in Johannesburg last night after spending one night with friends in Dubai. Must say, not impressed with Dubai at all, it's like Vegas but even more soul-less. And the shopping, I found it to be extremely expensive, so don't know what the big deal is.
Pretoria is lovely, the weather is perfect and we actually managed to miss the Christmas crowd streaming in from all corners of the world. I imagine the airport will be a nightmare this upcoming weekend. We plan on spending the week here in Pretoria seeing friends and family, we have a Christmas party each with the two sides of the family tonight and tomorrow night, and on Saturday we'll load up my dad's double cab and head off on an adventure through some of the beautiful parks and mountains of the Free State, KwaZulu Natal and Lesotho.
I wish you all a wonderful holiday season, and if you are taking some time off, hope you will enjoy the time spent with loved ones.
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Saturday, December 09, 2006
Morocco
A favorite shot of mine, here we are at the Fes dye pits where all leather goods are hand-dyed.
Update
It has been almost a month since I last wrote, and the requests for updates have started picking up. Trust me, it is not for a lack of news or desire that I have not put my thoughts to paper, but rather more the weight of the realities squeezing us from every angle. With the emergence of study groups, high-profile resignations and political tug-of-wars in Washington, I ache for my Iraqi friends who have now turned to say it bluntly, petrified of the situation in Baghdad.
As the daily sectarian killings continue to plague the neighborhoods, we bid yet another colleague goodbye, weekly it seems. I am sad at losing my friends, but glad that they are of the fortunate few with the means and an option to get their families out. At a dinner with a colleague, his wife, and their five and two year olds, I listen to their optimism about moving to Dubai. "We have lost everything, as long as we have each other, we will be okay" says the mechanical engineer wife of my colleague.
As surreal as it seems, in the interest of an actual "update" I will give a brief overview of what we have been up to for the past month. I mentioned we had a week's break in Tuscany where we stayed at a 13th Century Agriturismo Estate called Spannochia. The estate is part of the Spannochia Foundation and was recently awarded as a "Green List" by Conde Nest Traveler. For our family and close friends, we have already indicated a possible return to Spannochia for a reunion in the near future.
Today we start the four day trek out of Baghdad to get to South Africa to spend Christmas with my family, including my now very ailing grandparents. We fly via Amman (as usual), and then to Dubai where we will spend the night with my good friends from high school who have lived in Dubai for about five years. On Tuesday we are off to Pretoria for a couple weeks of road tripping through Southern Africa with my dad's new double cab (complete with off-road trailer), eventually ending up at his house on a game farm for Christmas with my sister and her new fiancee, and his parents.
Our xmas cards and gift boxes are in the mail, you should all receive them shortly. Thank you also to all who sent us cards, good wishes and lovely care packages. We appreciate them all tremendously. And if you did send something that we did not receive before we leave (including toys for the Toys for Tots campaign) do not worry, they will be kept for our return.
I will leave you with a few recent photographs...
As the daily sectarian killings continue to plague the neighborhoods, we bid yet another colleague goodbye, weekly it seems. I am sad at losing my friends, but glad that they are of the fortunate few with the means and an option to get their families out. At a dinner with a colleague, his wife, and their five and two year olds, I listen to their optimism about moving to Dubai. "We have lost everything, as long as we have each other, we will be okay" says the mechanical engineer wife of my colleague.
As surreal as it seems, in the interest of an actual "update" I will give a brief overview of what we have been up to for the past month. I mentioned we had a week's break in Tuscany where we stayed at a 13th Century Agriturismo Estate called Spannochia. The estate is part of the Spannochia Foundation and was recently awarded as a "Green List" by Conde Nest Traveler. For our family and close friends, we have already indicated a possible return to Spannochia for a reunion in the near future.
Today we start the four day trek out of Baghdad to get to South Africa to spend Christmas with my family, including my now very ailing grandparents. We fly via Amman (as usual), and then to Dubai where we will spend the night with my good friends from high school who have lived in Dubai for about five years. On Tuesday we are off to Pretoria for a couple weeks of road tripping through Southern Africa with my dad's new double cab (complete with off-road trailer), eventually ending up at his house on a game farm for Christmas with my sister and her new fiancee, and his parents.
Our xmas cards and gift boxes are in the mail, you should all receive them shortly. Thank you also to all who sent us cards, good wishes and lovely care packages. We appreciate them all tremendously. And if you did send something that we did not receive before we leave (including toys for the Toys for Tots campaign) do not worry, they will be kept for our return.
I will leave you with a few recent photographs...
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
Baghdad Marathon
(Photo: Our "kiss-off" instead of a "handoff" raised many "aaauuuw's" from the supporters of the Baghdad Marathon)
On Saturday November 11th, a bunch of us participated in the Baghdad Marathon. While three of our much, much braver colleagues ran the entire 26.2 mi through the International Zone (accomplished through two laps around a 13mi course), the rest of us opted to sign up for the 5-person teams. As part of a relay team each member had to complete one 5.2 lap for a total of 5 laps.
(Photo -Coming in for the finish)
Certainly one of the most interesting courses one could ever hope to run. The highlights of the day started with the only pre-race safety briefing I ever heard to include "incoming fire" and "kidnapping risk" - now I don't know, perhaps runners in Colombia get the same briefing, but it was a first for us. Comments to the instructions to "duck" included "or run faster".
The first runner departed at 0500 from the back of Saddam's palace, next to the pool. As each runner completes the course he/she hands off at the same location. Mile one was run flanking the T-walls where a row of big-rig supply trucks were lined up to be scanned, searched and scrutinized before gaining access to the highly guarded Embassy compound. Not quite used to dodging rigs on runs either, but hey - it's not the half of it. At the end of the long stretch of T-wall, marathoners went underneath, relayers went to the right of the 14th of July bridge, in plane site of the Tigris river, and mind you, the Red Zone (hence the "indirect fire" briefing I imagine). Continuing on straight to the traffic circle with the statue of the four soldiers (the same statue that was infamously hit by a certain South African colleague in a 300K armored vehicle, winning him a one-way ticket home). From there the route veered slightly left toward the convention center, right at the "tomb of the unknown soldier" (the marathoners got to run under Saddam's swords but not the relayers) past the Combat Support Hospital (CASH), and back around the embassy.
All along the route were KBR employees for whom the distinction between "marathoner" and "relayer" apparently posed just too much information, hence rendering most of the relayers to run far longer than the planned 5.2 mi. In addition to KBR folks were the ever-present Peruvian guards, automatic rifle in hand, ready with the standard greeting "buenos dias miiiieeeeeeees...."Apart from our starter not coordinating with the second fellow (resulting in the second guy waiting around for about 20 mins before simply jumping into the next group of people that ran past at the change over), our team did fine - and most importantly, we all had a great time. A computer crash at the embassy caused the loss of most of the race times, so I regress that I cannot report back on our marvelous performance.
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
America (and me) votes 2006!
Fine, so it’s a little weird to get up at 5am to watch anything on TV, except if it’s to watch the Springboks maul the All Blacks – or as the case may be this morning, Nancy Pelosi sharpening her claws for the next two years as Speaker of the House.
It’s true friends, it’s true. We woke before dawn, made some strong coffee, flipped some pancakes and glued ourselves to CNN as the polls slowly started closing on the west coast. Together with some other active politicos we watched Allen and Webb battle it out in Virginia, and cringed together as Lieberman permanently tattooed “#1 Republican” on his forehead.
I thought I would share this photograph with y’all. And let me tell you, it was a big deal. When the absentee ballots came in October Chris nonchalantly said “oh, we have to remember to vote tonight”, I nearly fell over! I was like “no, noooo, no, you don’t understand, I have to prepare, I have to be ready”. So I mentally prepared for a few days, and finally cast my first vote ever at my kitchen counter in Baghdad, listening to the Dixie Chicks (note: I was 5 months too young to vote for Nelson Mandela, and have lived as an *alien* ever since).
For those of you who know me and have attended my political fundraising parties, you will understand what a big deal this is for me…so we continue to watch…at the office, on CNN.com and a myriad of political blogs to follow the close races in MT, VA and TN….it’s close…oh so close….
Sunday, November 05, 2006
Living through a death sentence
For once the ice-cold interior of the Hamurabi office building is a welcome refuge from the outside. I dashed back to my house; adrenalin runs high; heart beats quickly as I navigate through the fortified hard houses that long-term staff occupies on the compound. Instead of the direct route I normally take home I find myself snaking as much as possible, at times even entering other quads, adding precious concrete barriers between myself and the exterior walls.
The sounds are unmistakable, "rrrrrrratatatatatatatatatata" sounds the AK47, "rat-duht-duht-duht-duht" come the much deeper, evenly-spaced 50-caliber's response. In my ten months in Baghdad, one of the many things I have come to understand is that the latter is what they call "outgoing", generally a good thing. But when it happens in response to massive celebratory fire, it doesn't seem as effective as its normal silencing of misleading AK fire we experience at night from time to time.
And so, as with so many other random dates, today is in itself again a historic moment for Iraq. Saddam Hussein was convicted mere minutes ago for his role in the 1982 killing of 148 Shi'a villagers in the town of Dujail. The sentence passed down from the judge is that he will be hanged for his crimes, something he protested against instead demanding death by firing squad as a "military man", and not hanging like a "criminal".
The Regional Security Office at the embassy issued a precautionary mandate that all employees should be wearing their Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) when moving around outside on the compound outside, hence my necessary dash home. Everyone in the office is quite; the air conditioner is pleasantly cooling, not much discussion going on…
Earlier, a couple of Iraqi colleagues came into the dining hall with huge smiles on their faces, one of them, an attractive young man that works in motorpool indicated the international sign for "he's dead" by slicing his finger across the front of his neck exclaiming "finally, it's over". I asked him if he thought something was going to happen. He said "you mean something bad?"
smiling again, he added
"…no, of course not, the shooting outside is for the happiness".
So on that "happy" note, I'll keep my flack jacket and helmet on for good measure. "
A Few Hours Later.......
Just an update on the situation in Baghdad...in the scheme of things it was a relatively quiet day - even the celebratory fire was actually less than that which happens after a good football game in Baghdad. I do hear a lot of air traffic overhead tonight in what I can only imagine is continued surveillance of the volatile city. Please keep our Iraqi friends and neighbors in your thoughts and prayers.
The sounds are unmistakable, "rrrrrrratatatatatatatatatata" sounds the AK47, "rat-duht-duht-duht-duht" come the much deeper, evenly-spaced 50-caliber's response. In my ten months in Baghdad, one of the many things I have come to understand is that the latter is what they call "outgoing", generally a good thing. But when it happens in response to massive celebratory fire, it doesn't seem as effective as its normal silencing of misleading AK fire we experience at night from time to time.
And so, as with so many other random dates, today is in itself again a historic moment for Iraq. Saddam Hussein was convicted mere minutes ago for his role in the 1982 killing of 148 Shi'a villagers in the town of Dujail. The sentence passed down from the judge is that he will be hanged for his crimes, something he protested against instead demanding death by firing squad as a "military man", and not hanging like a "criminal".
The Regional Security Office at the embassy issued a precautionary mandate that all employees should be wearing their Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) when moving around outside on the compound outside, hence my necessary dash home. Everyone in the office is quite; the air conditioner is pleasantly cooling, not much discussion going on…
Earlier, a couple of Iraqi colleagues came into the dining hall with huge smiles on their faces, one of them, an attractive young man that works in motorpool indicated the international sign for "he's dead" by slicing his finger across the front of his neck exclaiming "finally, it's over". I asked him if he thought something was going to happen. He said "you mean something bad?"
smiling again, he added
"…no, of course not, the shooting outside is for the happiness".
So on that "happy" note, I'll keep my flack jacket and helmet on for good measure. "
A Few Hours Later.......
Just an update on the situation in Baghdad...in the scheme of things it was a relatively quiet day - even the celebratory fire was actually less than that which happens after a good football game in Baghdad. I do hear a lot of air traffic overhead tonight in what I can only imagine is continued surveillance of the volatile city. Please keep our Iraqi friends and neighbors in your thoughts and prayers.
Baghdad holdings its breath
With the anticipated conviction of Saddam Hussein expected later today, Baghdad is taking no chances. A curfew has been in place since 2100 last night, and runs through tomorrow - rendering all streets practically impassable to residents, including to our local staff.
The concern is that if a conviction (and subsequent penalty, most likely to be that of death by hanging) is passed, Saddam's own Sunni minority will rise up in anger. Alternatively, if a conviction is not passed, the Shi'a majority might view this as a failure in the fragile justice system.
The imminent conviction is riddled with potential problems and claimed irregularities. Some argue the timing was rigged to provide a boost for republicans before the mid-term elections, others fear that a conviction in this case, will hamper the process of justice in the ongoing Al Anfal campaign. Iraqi law states that if a death sentence is passed, it must be carried out within 30 days. Thus, if Saddam is convicted and sentenced in the Dujail case in which he allegedly ordered the killing of 148 Shi'a villagers following an attempt on his life in 1982, he will most likely not complete the Al Anfal trial that accuses him of systematically killing as many as 182,000 individuals between 1986 and 1989 in his anti-Kurdish campaign.
One thing I wonder about is what Kurdistan will do if they do not see their own slice of justice.
In the meantime, Bradley and Abraham's tanks have been rolled out at checkpoints and we'll be hunkered down, working hard. Please keep the Iraqis in your thoughts.
The concern is that if a conviction (and subsequent penalty, most likely to be that of death by hanging) is passed, Saddam's own Sunni minority will rise up in anger. Alternatively, if a conviction is not passed, the Shi'a majority might view this as a failure in the fragile justice system.
The imminent conviction is riddled with potential problems and claimed irregularities. Some argue the timing was rigged to provide a boost for republicans before the mid-term elections, others fear that a conviction in this case, will hamper the process of justice in the ongoing Al Anfal campaign. Iraqi law states that if a death sentence is passed, it must be carried out within 30 days. Thus, if Saddam is convicted and sentenced in the Dujail case in which he allegedly ordered the killing of 148 Shi'a villagers following an attempt on his life in 1982, he will most likely not complete the Al Anfal trial that accuses him of systematically killing as many as 182,000 individuals between 1986 and 1989 in his anti-Kurdish campaign.
One thing I wonder about is what Kurdistan will do if they do not see their own slice of justice.
In the meantime, Bradley and Abraham's tanks have been rolled out at checkpoints and we'll be hunkered down, working hard. Please keep the Iraqis in your thoughts.
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
Waiting at Baghdad Airport...
...for the milair can be an excruciating experience to say the least. At least today was not one of them. Unlike the 13-hours I waited for the bird in August to fly me out to Amman enroute to Kurdistan, today was remarkably painless. We left shortly before 10:00 which means we arrived in Amman in time for lunch, which was had at a local restaurant with a strong lamb speciality. Great chops and kebab.
I took this photo of some soldiers having a "not so Four Seasons" breakfast a BIAP before heading out for some much overdo R&R.
I took this photo of some soldiers having a "not so Four Seasons" breakfast a BIAP before heading out for some much overdo R&R.Sunday, October 22, 2006
Photos of downtown Baghdad
Here are some shots from downtown Baghdad from a trip out to a site a month or so ago, apologies for the quality, they were shot from the back of a humvee.
A tale of two brothers
Once there were two brothers who worked for our agency in Baghdad. One was quiet and one really talkative who loved to greet every person on the compound. They always sat at the first table as you entered the restaurant, ready with a smile and an opportunity to practice their English with their American colleagues who come in for lunch.
While the brothers worked in the IZ, facing the daily challenges our local staff face every day coming and going into and back out of the "heavily fortified Green Zone", the family in Baghdad suffered several setbacks. Displaced more than once from their family home, their mother had suffered a health setback and needed surgery, and then one day, the one brother, the quiet one was shot.
It happened one night when our two colleagues and their two other brothers were huddled in a house together. Gunmen burst through the door and started firing at them. One of the four sustained minor injuries, while our brother, the quiet one, took two shots to the abdomen.
A week later he shows up at work and looks a little pale, our executive officer (EXO - the one that runs the whole compound and all HR issues) looks at him and inquires about his health. After a trip to the CASH (short for combat support hospital), he is cleaned up and the EXO told that had he not risked his life to come into work that day, he would have died (*sic*). They kept him over night and fortunately he recovered remarkably.
Then came Ramadan, the holy month of Islam. While our muslim colleagues fasted, leaving the restaurant empty during lunch hour, life here in the compound continued. Until Thursday...
That night, the other brother got shot. Unfortunately, he was not as lucky as the quiet one.
Walking home from the market with his brother-in-law where he was buying clothes for his son for the Eid celebration, gunmen shot and killed both men, including our colleague, a brother, and as it turns out, a young one - a mere 20 years at that, married not three months earlier.
The reality of what is going on in Baghdad hit us hard on Friday as the news spread through the compound, the mindless acts of violence, the senseless killings, the realities faced by our colleagues. How they do it, I do not know, but we pray for them and I hope you will too.
While the brothers worked in the IZ, facing the daily challenges our local staff face every day coming and going into and back out of the "heavily fortified Green Zone", the family in Baghdad suffered several setbacks. Displaced more than once from their family home, their mother had suffered a health setback and needed surgery, and then one day, the one brother, the quiet one was shot.
It happened one night when our two colleagues and their two other brothers were huddled in a house together. Gunmen burst through the door and started firing at them. One of the four sustained minor injuries, while our brother, the quiet one, took two shots to the abdomen.
A week later he shows up at work and looks a little pale, our executive officer (EXO - the one that runs the whole compound and all HR issues) looks at him and inquires about his health. After a trip to the CASH (short for combat support hospital), he is cleaned up and the EXO told that had he not risked his life to come into work that day, he would have died (*sic*). They kept him over night and fortunately he recovered remarkably.
Then came Ramadan, the holy month of Islam. While our muslim colleagues fasted, leaving the restaurant empty during lunch hour, life here in the compound continued. Until Thursday...
That night, the other brother got shot. Unfortunately, he was not as lucky as the quiet one.
Walking home from the market with his brother-in-law where he was buying clothes for his son for the Eid celebration, gunmen shot and killed both men, including our colleague, a brother, and as it turns out, a young one - a mere 20 years at that, married not three months earlier.
The reality of what is going on in Baghdad hit us hard on Friday as the news spread through the compound, the mindless acts of violence, the senseless killings, the realities faced by our colleagues. How they do it, I do not know, but we pray for them and I hope you will too.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
"Can You tell a Sunni from a Shiite" by Jeff Stein (NY Times OpEd)
This makes me warm and fuzzy inside to think that thousands of people are risking their lives fighting a war against a supposed "enemy" that those designing and waging, haven't even researched or studied. Note to all these uninformed morons - asserting yourself doesn't beat the enemy. No, instead, knowing and becoming the enemy, beats the enemy...ask any of the 9/11 terrorists. They lived, ate and became like Americans. That is why they beat the US that day, not because they stormed in as "Muslims" but instead, because they integrated themselves into America. How are we supposed to sell the quagmire that has become Iraq when the drafters of foreign policy and intelligence (*sic*) cannot tell you the branch of Islam that the largest funder of the Iraq insurgency adheres to. But remember, hot off the Public Relations presses in Baghdad "Our strategy for Victory in Iraq is working".
October 17, 2006
Op-Ed Contributor
Can You Tell a Sunni From a Shiite?
By JEFF STEIN
Washington
FOR the past several months, I’ve been wrapping up lengthy interviews with Washington counterterrorism officials with a fundamental question: “Do you know the difference between a Sunni and a Shiite?”
A “gotcha” question? Perhaps. But if knowing your enemy is the most basic rule of war, I don’t think it’s out of bounds. And as I quickly explain to my subjects, I’m not looking for theological explanations, just the basics: Who’s on what side today, and what does each want?
After all, wouldn’t British counterterrorism officials responsible for Northern Ireland know the difference between Catholics and Protestants? In a remotely similar but far more lethal vein, the 1,400-year Sunni-Shiite rivalry is playing out in the streets of Baghdad, raising the specter of a breakup of Iraq into antagonistic states, one backed by Shiite Iran and the other by Saudi Arabia and other Sunni states.
A complete collapse in Iraq could provide a haven for Al Qaeda operatives within striking distance of Israel, even Europe. And the nature of the threat from Iran, a potential nuclear power with protégés in the Gulf states, northern Saudi Arabia, Lebanon and the Palestinian territories, is entirely different from that of Al Qaeda. It seems silly to have to argue that officials responsible for counterterrorism should be able to recognize opportunities for pitting these rivals against each other.
But so far, most American officials I’ve interviewed don’t have a clue. That includes not just intelligence and law enforcement officials, but also members of Congress who have important roles overseeing our spy agencies. How can they do their jobs without knowing the basics?
My curiosity about our policymakers’ grasp of Islam’s two major branches was piqued in 2005, when Jon Stewart and other TV comedians made hash out of depositions, taken in a whistleblower case, in which top F.B.I. officials drew blanks when asked basic questions about Islam. One of the bemused officials was Gary Bald, then the bureau’s counterterrorism chief. Such expertise, Mr. Bald maintained, wasn’t as important as being a good manager.
A few months later, I asked the F.B.I.’s spokesman, John Miller, about Mr. Bald’s comments. “A leader needs to drive the organization forward,” Mr. Miller told me. “If he is the executive in a counterterrorism operation in the post-9/11 world, he does not need to memorize the collected statements of Osama bin Laden, or be able to read Urdu to be effective. ... Playing ‘Islamic Trivial Pursuit’ was a cheap shot for the lawyers and a cheaper shot for the journalist. It’s just a gimmick.”
Of course, I hadn’t asked about reading Urdu or Mr. bin Laden’s writings.
A few weeks ago, I took the F.B.I.’s temperature again. At the end of a long interview, I asked Willie Hulon, chief of the bureau’s new national security branch, whether he thought that it was important for a man in his position to know the difference between Sunnis and Shiites. “Yes, sure, it’s right to know the difference,” he said. “It’s important to know who your targets are.”
That was a big advance over 2005. So next I asked him if he could tell me the difference. He was flummoxed. “The basics goes back to their beliefs and who they were following,” he said. “And the conflicts between the Sunnis and the Shia and the difference between who they were following.”
O.K., I asked, trying to help, what about today? Which one is Iran — Sunni or Shiite? He thought for a second. “Iran and Hezbollah,” I prompted. “Which are they?”
He took a stab: “Sunni.”
Wrong.
Al Qaeda? “Sunni.”
Right.
AND to his credit, Mr. Hulon, a distinguished agent who is up nights worrying about Al Qaeda while we safely sleep, did at least know that the vicious struggle between Islam’s Abel and Cain was driving Iraq into civil war. But then we pay him to know things like that, the same as some members of Congress.
Take Representative Terry Everett, a seven-term Alabama Republican who is vice chairman of the House intelligence subcommittee on technical and tactical intelligence.
“Do you know the difference between a Sunni and a Shiite?” I asked him a few weeks ago.
Mr. Everett responded with a low chuckle. He thought for a moment: “One’s in one location, another’s in another location. No, to be honest with you, I don’t know. I thought it was differences in their religion, different families or something.”
To his credit, he asked me to explain the differences. I told him briefly about the schism that developed after the death of the Prophet Muhammad, and how Iraq and Iran are majority Shiite nations while the rest of the Muslim world is mostly Sunni. “Now that you’ve explained it to me,” he replied, “what occurs to me is that it makes what we’re doing over there extremely difficult, not only in Iraq but that whole area.”
Representative Jo Ann Davis, a Virginia Republican who heads a House intelligence subcommittee charged with overseeing the C.I.A.’s performance in recruiting Islamic spies and analyzing information, was similarly dumbfounded when I asked her if she knew the difference between Sunnis and Shiites.
“Do I?” she asked me. A look of concentration came over her face. “You know, I should.” She took a stab at it: “It’s a difference in their fundamental religious beliefs. The Sunni are more radical than the Shia. Or vice versa. But I think it’s the Sunnis who’re more radical than the Shia.”
Did she know which branch Al Qaeda’s leaders follow?
“Al Qaeda is the one that’s most radical, so I think they’re Sunni,” she replied. “I may be wrong, but I think that’s right.”
Did she think that it was important, I asked, for members of Congress charged with oversight of the intelligence agencies, to know the answer to such questions, so they can cut through officials’ puffery when they came up to the Hill?
“Oh, I think it’s very important,” said Ms. Davis, “because Al Qaeda’s whole reason for being is based on their beliefs. And you’ve got to understand, and to know your enemy.”
It’s not all so grimly humorous. Some agency officials and members of Congress have easily handled my “gotcha” question. But as I keep asking it around Capitol Hill and the agencies, I get more and more blank stares. Too many officials in charge of the war on terrorism just don’t care to learn much, if anything, about the enemy we’re fighting. And that’s enough to keep anybody up at night.
Jeff Stein is the national security editor at Congressional Quarterly.
October 17, 2006
Op-Ed Contributor
Can You Tell a Sunni From a Shiite?
By JEFF STEIN
Washington
FOR the past several months, I’ve been wrapping up lengthy interviews with Washington counterterrorism officials with a fundamental question: “Do you know the difference between a Sunni and a Shiite?”
A “gotcha” question? Perhaps. But if knowing your enemy is the most basic rule of war, I don’t think it’s out of bounds. And as I quickly explain to my subjects, I’m not looking for theological explanations, just the basics: Who’s on what side today, and what does each want?
After all, wouldn’t British counterterrorism officials responsible for Northern Ireland know the difference between Catholics and Protestants? In a remotely similar but far more lethal vein, the 1,400-year Sunni-Shiite rivalry is playing out in the streets of Baghdad, raising the specter of a breakup of Iraq into antagonistic states, one backed by Shiite Iran and the other by Saudi Arabia and other Sunni states.
A complete collapse in Iraq could provide a haven for Al Qaeda operatives within striking distance of Israel, even Europe. And the nature of the threat from Iran, a potential nuclear power with protégés in the Gulf states, northern Saudi Arabia, Lebanon and the Palestinian territories, is entirely different from that of Al Qaeda. It seems silly to have to argue that officials responsible for counterterrorism should be able to recognize opportunities for pitting these rivals against each other.
But so far, most American officials I’ve interviewed don’t have a clue. That includes not just intelligence and law enforcement officials, but also members of Congress who have important roles overseeing our spy agencies. How can they do their jobs without knowing the basics?
My curiosity about our policymakers’ grasp of Islam’s two major branches was piqued in 2005, when Jon Stewart and other TV comedians made hash out of depositions, taken in a whistleblower case, in which top F.B.I. officials drew blanks when asked basic questions about Islam. One of the bemused officials was Gary Bald, then the bureau’s counterterrorism chief. Such expertise, Mr. Bald maintained, wasn’t as important as being a good manager.
A few months later, I asked the F.B.I.’s spokesman, John Miller, about Mr. Bald’s comments. “A leader needs to drive the organization forward,” Mr. Miller told me. “If he is the executive in a counterterrorism operation in the post-9/11 world, he does not need to memorize the collected statements of Osama bin Laden, or be able to read Urdu to be effective. ... Playing ‘Islamic Trivial Pursuit’ was a cheap shot for the lawyers and a cheaper shot for the journalist. It’s just a gimmick.”
Of course, I hadn’t asked about reading Urdu or Mr. bin Laden’s writings.
A few weeks ago, I took the F.B.I.’s temperature again. At the end of a long interview, I asked Willie Hulon, chief of the bureau’s new national security branch, whether he thought that it was important for a man in his position to know the difference between Sunnis and Shiites. “Yes, sure, it’s right to know the difference,” he said. “It’s important to know who your targets are.”
That was a big advance over 2005. So next I asked him if he could tell me the difference. He was flummoxed. “The basics goes back to their beliefs and who they were following,” he said. “And the conflicts between the Sunnis and the Shia and the difference between who they were following.”
O.K., I asked, trying to help, what about today? Which one is Iran — Sunni or Shiite? He thought for a second. “Iran and Hezbollah,” I prompted. “Which are they?”
He took a stab: “Sunni.”
Wrong.
Al Qaeda? “Sunni.”
Right.
AND to his credit, Mr. Hulon, a distinguished agent who is up nights worrying about Al Qaeda while we safely sleep, did at least know that the vicious struggle between Islam’s Abel and Cain was driving Iraq into civil war. But then we pay him to know things like that, the same as some members of Congress.
Take Representative Terry Everett, a seven-term Alabama Republican who is vice chairman of the House intelligence subcommittee on technical and tactical intelligence.
“Do you know the difference between a Sunni and a Shiite?” I asked him a few weeks ago.
Mr. Everett responded with a low chuckle. He thought for a moment: “One’s in one location, another’s in another location. No, to be honest with you, I don’t know. I thought it was differences in their religion, different families or something.”
To his credit, he asked me to explain the differences. I told him briefly about the schism that developed after the death of the Prophet Muhammad, and how Iraq and Iran are majority Shiite nations while the rest of the Muslim world is mostly Sunni. “Now that you’ve explained it to me,” he replied, “what occurs to me is that it makes what we’re doing over there extremely difficult, not only in Iraq but that whole area.”
Representative Jo Ann Davis, a Virginia Republican who heads a House intelligence subcommittee charged with overseeing the C.I.A.’s performance in recruiting Islamic spies and analyzing information, was similarly dumbfounded when I asked her if she knew the difference between Sunnis and Shiites.
“Do I?” she asked me. A look of concentration came over her face. “You know, I should.” She took a stab at it: “It’s a difference in their fundamental religious beliefs. The Sunni are more radical than the Shia. Or vice versa. But I think it’s the Sunnis who’re more radical than the Shia.”
Did she know which branch Al Qaeda’s leaders follow?
“Al Qaeda is the one that’s most radical, so I think they’re Sunni,” she replied. “I may be wrong, but I think that’s right.”
Did she think that it was important, I asked, for members of Congress charged with oversight of the intelligence agencies, to know the answer to such questions, so they can cut through officials’ puffery when they came up to the Hill?
“Oh, I think it’s very important,” said Ms. Davis, “because Al Qaeda’s whole reason for being is based on their beliefs. And you’ve got to understand, and to know your enemy.”
It’s not all so grimly humorous. Some agency officials and members of Congress have easily handled my “gotcha” question. But as I keep asking it around Capitol Hill and the agencies, I get more and more blank stares. Too many officials in charge of the war on terrorism just don’t care to learn much, if anything, about the enemy we’re fighting. And that’s enough to keep anybody up at night.
Jeff Stein is the national security editor at Congressional Quarterly.
Saturday, September 30, 2006
Happy birthday to Me!
That's right, today is not only the end of the fiscal year, but also my adios to another wonderful year. Who knew, New Haven to Baghdad in one year...geez, makes me wonder where I'll be for the big 3-0 next year.
Thanks for all the messages, emails and well-wishes.
Thanks for all the messages, emails and well-wishes.
Monday, September 25, 2006
Some random Ramadan thoughts...
Ramadan started for Sunni Muslims on Saturday, and for Shia'a on Monday (or Sunday depending on who you ask). A few observations. I noticed (perhaps for the first time in a long time) the moon the other night. A slight, very slight crescent - and realized what an important role the moon plays in so many cultures and beliefs.
I've talked to many of my colleagues about it, just noting how much I admire them for the dedication to fast from sun-up to sun-down for thirty whole days. The roughest test has to be the fact that you cannot even drink any water throughout the day. "Nothing must enter the stomach" is how a good friend described it.
I have noticed throughout the day how my friends get paler as the day drags on... lunchroom is empty.
I've talked to many of my colleagues about it, just noting how much I admire them for the dedication to fast from sun-up to sun-down for thirty whole days. The roughest test has to be the fact that you cannot even drink any water throughout the day. "Nothing must enter the stomach" is how a good friend described it.
I have noticed throughout the day how my friends get paler as the day drags on... lunchroom is empty.
Monday, September 18, 2006
Cool!
Forgot to tell you, I got to drive a Humvee last night. No, not a shiny bright-yellow, $100,000 gas guzzling Hummer H2, a real (probably $120,000 gas guzzling) NAVY humvee! Friend of mine is an EOD tech (read: she dismantles bombs for a living) and gave us a ride home from church in her humvee - and I got to drive, cool!
Sunday, September 17, 2006
Jonah, Ninewa and the Assyrians...
You know how some days you are having a quite ordinary, daily grind, nothing special kinda day. Today was no different – went to the gym for 45 mins, stuck in management training for eight hours, did a yoga DVD before heading to the 18:15 “contemporary” protestant service at the Palace. I can’t help but think how this the “Republican Palace” of Saddam Hussein, has remained exactly that, the “Republican Palace” – only now, the halls crawl with GOP ideologues here for a thrill, and for their president. This article highlights how resumes of incredibly qualified individuals were thrown out in exchange for 24-year olds who gave the right answer to where they stood on Roe vs. Wade.
Wait, this is not the reason for this post at all. But I do encourage all to read the article in the Post to understand some of the frustration we deal with everyday. Back to the reason for my writing tonight however. The sermon, and how a seemingly ordinary day, turned out to have a very special gift at the end. His name is Canon Andrew White. His 6’5” posture is overpowering, and that is before he opens his mouth. The late’ish-thirties Brit who is a visiting pastor to our largely military congregation, save for the development folks like ourselves, towers over the podium, and the congregation is glued. “How many of you were here when I talked about Jonah?”…he briefly scans the room “…ah, maaaahvelous then, you won’t mind if I repeat myself then would you?”, joking with the handful of folks that raised their hands.
He continues to explain that he will preach from the book of Nahum. Something he has done “about once, I think it was about ten years ago”. Explaining the only reason for preaching about this obscure prophet is that one of the members of his Iraqi congregation told him that he is from Ninewa.
As it is, our friend with the Monty Python sense of humor and little tolerance for unwanted political correctness, has worked in Iraq since 1998. He used to live in the Karada district in downtown Baghdad, and had a congregation on Haifa street. That was until the US Embassy told him to move his operation into the IZ after they discovered he had a $5 million bounty on his head. Pastor White continues to worship with his dedicated Iraqi congregation however, albeit within the confinement of the IZ. Every Saturday from around 10:30 or so – apparently last Saturday after 5 hours he tried using a Blessing to end the proceedings, alas, he was there for two more hours as the mostly Caldian Assyrian Christians continued to worship. I was waiting to hear where these proceedings took place so that we might attend next week, when the entire congregation went deathly silent when he explained that it actually takes place in the office of the Shiite Muslim Prime Minister. The reality of that is slow to sink in, when he continues.
People ask Pastor White, “wow, when did the Iraqis convert to Christianity”. Did the Baptists come here? He responds “sure they did, in 2003, right after the invasion – I met them at a Southern Baptist Convention in Baghdad” (sic). After all, how do you explain to people that Iraqis have been practicing Christianity for roughly 2,600 years? At the tale of Jonah and the whale the Pastor exclaims “…and to think Jonah didn’t want to come to Iraq, instead he wanted to go to Spain, I mean REALLY, who WOULDN’T want to come to Iraq???...” we laugh. He continues “not to worry, that’s when God sent him by submarine”. More laughter. The congregation is gripped with his tales of Saturday worships in the PM’s office and quick stabs like “…yes, I am indeed Anglican, but not American Anglican, I’m British Anglican, the side that still believes in the Bible”. Nervous laughter.
To listen to a man preach the Bible that spends his Saturdays working with the people who are in the Bible, is something way beyond spiritual. Just this past Saturday during his Jonah tale, he asked his congregation, “how many of you are from Ninewa” (the town Jonah was sent to save), over 60 people raised their hands…And here they were 2,600 years later. Islam has come and gone through their towns and villages, and they still worship God… and we read about them in the Bible, and they are here, in Baghdad.
I am going to try and get a copy of the service on DVD to share with those interested (and you can be sure I’m trying to go to the service in the PMs office).
Wait, this is not the reason for this post at all. But I do encourage all to read the article in the Post to understand some of the frustration we deal with everyday. Back to the reason for my writing tonight however. The sermon, and how a seemingly ordinary day, turned out to have a very special gift at the end. His name is Canon Andrew White. His 6’5” posture is overpowering, and that is before he opens his mouth. The late’ish-thirties Brit who is a visiting pastor to our largely military congregation, save for the development folks like ourselves, towers over the podium, and the congregation is glued. “How many of you were here when I talked about Jonah?”…he briefly scans the room “…ah, maaaahvelous then, you won’t mind if I repeat myself then would you?”, joking with the handful of folks that raised their hands.
He continues to explain that he will preach from the book of Nahum. Something he has done “about once, I think it was about ten years ago”. Explaining the only reason for preaching about this obscure prophet is that one of the members of his Iraqi congregation told him that he is from Ninewa.
As it is, our friend with the Monty Python sense of humor and little tolerance for unwanted political correctness, has worked in Iraq since 1998. He used to live in the Karada district in downtown Baghdad, and had a congregation on Haifa street. That was until the US Embassy told him to move his operation into the IZ after they discovered he had a $5 million bounty on his head. Pastor White continues to worship with his dedicated Iraqi congregation however, albeit within the confinement of the IZ. Every Saturday from around 10:30 or so – apparently last Saturday after 5 hours he tried using a Blessing to end the proceedings, alas, he was there for two more hours as the mostly Caldian Assyrian Christians continued to worship. I was waiting to hear where these proceedings took place so that we might attend next week, when the entire congregation went deathly silent when he explained that it actually takes place in the office of the Shiite Muslim Prime Minister. The reality of that is slow to sink in, when he continues.
People ask Pastor White, “wow, when did the Iraqis convert to Christianity”. Did the Baptists come here? He responds “sure they did, in 2003, right after the invasion – I met them at a Southern Baptist Convention in Baghdad” (sic). After all, how do you explain to people that Iraqis have been practicing Christianity for roughly 2,600 years? At the tale of Jonah and the whale the Pastor exclaims “…and to think Jonah didn’t want to come to Iraq, instead he wanted to go to Spain, I mean REALLY, who WOULDN’T want to come to Iraq???...” we laugh. He continues “not to worry, that’s when God sent him by submarine”. More laughter. The congregation is gripped with his tales of Saturday worships in the PM’s office and quick stabs like “…yes, I am indeed Anglican, but not American Anglican, I’m British Anglican, the side that still believes in the Bible”. Nervous laughter.
To listen to a man preach the Bible that spends his Saturdays working with the people who are in the Bible, is something way beyond spiritual. Just this past Saturday during his Jonah tale, he asked his congregation, “how many of you are from Ninewa” (the town Jonah was sent to save), over 60 people raised their hands…And here they were 2,600 years later. Islam has come and gone through their towns and villages, and they still worship God… and we read about them in the Bible, and they are here, in Baghdad.
I am going to try and get a copy of the service on DVD to share with those interested (and you can be sure I’m trying to go to the service in the PMs office).
Saturday, September 16, 2006
Boys with a Bike
These boys gathered for a parting shot outside the home of aKurdish beekeeper we visited.
Friday, September 15, 2006
Notes From Kurdistan
(This piece was first distributed over email, I repost it here with some photographs from my trip)
Girls learn to sow at a Women's Center
Girls learn to sow at a Women's Center in a village an hour from Erbil, Kurdistan
For the past few days I have had the immense pleasure of running around the hills of Kurdistan. Accompanied by two colleagues, and a team of 10 PSDs (personal security details) I have definitely been treated like royalty, or at least a CODEL as we fly over the rolling hills of this northern province of Iraq, drinking tea with the locals, eating grapes with the Sheiks.
Kurdistan, yes, the place where the Kurds come from, is located on the northern border where Iraq meets Turkey, Syria and Iran. What has made this experience even more unique, is that just last week, while still in Baghdad, I attended the Al-Anfal Campaign Trial of Saddam Hussein. This, the second trial deals with the 1987-88 genocide against the Kurds in which a reported 182,000 lost their lives in brutal attacks including the widespread use of chemical weapons.
Kurdistan, yes, the place where the Kurds come from, is located on the northern border where Iraq meets Turkey, Syria and Iran. What has made this experience even more unique, is that just last week, while still in Baghdad, I attended the Al-Anfal Campaign Trial of Saddam Hussein. This, the second trial deals with the 1987-88 genocide against the Kurds in which a reported 182,000 lost their lives in brutal attacks including the widespread use of chemical weapons.
(below: A snapshot with some of the kids at a sport center for internally displaced persons)
The Kurdish region is rife with political complexities and this is not the place to try and explain the PUK vs PDK and the dress code of the Peshmerga, rather, I want to highlight the marvelous experience of actually getting to sit down in the most modest of villages interacting with men, women and children.
We drove between villages in Erbil, Duhok and Sulaymaniya province visiting beneficiaries of some of the USAID funded projects in the region. This included a visit to the mayor of a small 34-family village who benefit from a bee-keeping program we ran last fall. Next we attended a training session on the proper use of pesticides, held at a local mosque and widely attended by farmers from this particular village. Here we listened to the frustration of farmers at the realities of not having access to government.
We spent the night in the "5-star" Al Ashur hotel in Sulaymaniya. The run-down structure runs on a skeleton staff, and serves the same food for lunch and dinner with no menu. Nonetheless, there is great potential for its location begs the launching of boats, jet skis on Lake Dukan, and a myriad of other activities such as hiking and mountain biking in the awesome foothills that surround the property. Not surprisingly, it is on the same compound as the Iraqi President Talabani's residence - a large squarish structure that I could see on the hill directly opposite my hotel room window.
Today we attended another training, this time in the recognition, prevention and treatment of zoonotic diseases, again in the modest mosque of a small village. Interestingly, this time the attendance was almost exactly 50/50 males and females. Reason being of course that it is often women who participate in the keeping of farm animals (currently livestock amounts to 50% of Iraq's agriculture activities, which in turn employ 30% of the workforce). We had a heated debate about the culling of birds in the village following the Avian Influenza scare in another part of Kurdistan last year, with demands for reimbursement for such acts.
Leaving the training session, we headed deeper into the hills of Sulaymaniya, and the countryside continued to grow more and more beautiful. For the California crowd, I would say it looked something like the rolling hills in the Sacramento area, during summer, when everything is golden brown, and the bugs are buzzing in the heat...rolling hills, with scattered trees (although much of Kurdistan suffered immense deforestation during the Al Anfal Campaign as innocent civilians fled to the mountains for refuge), and the neat rows of grapes and other fruit trees.
We drove between villages in Erbil, Duhok and Sulaymaniya province visiting beneficiaries of some of the USAID funded projects in the region. This included a visit to the mayor of a small 34-family village who benefit from a bee-keeping program we ran last fall. Next we attended a training session on the proper use of pesticides, held at a local mosque and widely attended by farmers from this particular village. Here we listened to the frustration of farmers at the realities of not having access to government.
We spent the night in the "5-star" Al Ashur hotel in Sulaymaniya. The run-down structure runs on a skeleton staff, and serves the same food for lunch and dinner with no menu. Nonetheless, there is great potential for its location begs the launching of boats, jet skis on Lake Dukan, and a myriad of other activities such as hiking and mountain biking in the awesome foothills that surround the property. Not surprisingly, it is on the same compound as the Iraqi President Talabani's residence - a large squarish structure that I could see on the hill directly opposite my hotel room window.
Today we attended another training, this time in the recognition, prevention and treatment of zoonotic diseases, again in the modest mosque of a small village. Interestingly, this time the attendance was almost exactly 50/50 males and females. Reason being of course that it is often women who participate in the keeping of farm animals (currently livestock amounts to 50% of Iraq's agriculture activities, which in turn employ 30% of the workforce). We had a heated debate about the culling of birds in the village following the Avian Influenza scare in another part of Kurdistan last year, with demands for reimbursement for such acts.
Leaving the training session, we headed deeper into the hills of Sulaymaniya, and the countryside continued to grow more and more beautiful. For the California crowd, I would say it looked something like the rolling hills in the Sacramento area, during summer, when everything is golden brown, and the bugs are buzzing in the heat...rolling hills, with scattered trees (although much of Kurdistan suffered immense deforestation during the Al Anfal Campaign as innocent civilians fled to the mountains for refuge), and the neat rows of grapes and other fruit trees.
With the Peshmerga guard that travels with the agricultural implementing partner organization.
On this, our last stop for the day, we visited a house way at the top of a small hill, right down in the bottom of a breathtaking valley. The hill sits perched on the edge with picture windows from the ceiling to the floor. Needless to say, I was quite surprised at this obvious opulence, not exactly our run-of-the-mill beneficiary, until I realized what the aim of the project was.
The property is that of Sheikh Muhammed Mahmoud Abdullah. A wealthy man with connections in the right places and a family currently in London, he returned to his old Peshmerga stomping grounds, where he, himself had been blinded by the chemical attacks during Al Anfal. When he pointed in one direction across the mountains he said "Iran is about 6 hours walk that way", it was clear he knew this from experience.
Following his 6 month recovery, the good Sheikh remained in the UK, only to return and build himself what he refers to as his "Freedom House", where the bar apparently opens at 6pm and wine, beer and Rakia flows, "even in Iraq" one of us asked, to which he answers "of course yes, up here [Kurdistan] it is different", and my hunch is, no one argues with the Sheikh anyway. His servants return with a tray of chai, followed by home-grown grapes and figs, topped off with more chai and the best Iraqi sweets I've had. We discuss the 30 varieties of grapes the viticulturalist has found in the area and prod him on information about the sustainability of agribusiness with the right kind of funding.
When I ask for the bathroom he assures me there is a "western" toilet at the top, which I respectfully acknowledge but still opt for the Arabic version by the front door. (which I secretly prefer, makes squatting so much easier)
Long story short, our project funded a trellising and drip irrigation pilot project, currently implemented by a 70 year old Lebanese with a PhD from the Soviet Union who used to be the head of the fruits department in Baghdad under the previous regime. The idea is that if the village sees the Sheik's yield and quality increase, they will come begging for the technology, something that they currently shun for fear of a failing crop. Understandable of course, it's not like the Sheik needs a good yield to sustain his wine habits, but most of the folks down the hill in their mud huts surrounded by kids, do.
And so, my day ends with a 2.5 hour drive back to our office in Erbil, looking out the back of our overly up armored Suburban SUV, plated vest laying too heavily on my bladder full of chai and water...I cannot seem to wrap my mind around the dichotomy between the two sides of this country. On the one side, literally, a place where one feels free, wants to hike and mountain bike, a place where communities seem to make do, perhaps not flourish, but show me a post-conflict society where that is the case, but where people can concentrate on educating their kids and dreaming of their futures, versus what I see in Baghdad. This week, again a colleague lost a family member, this time a cousin who was so brutally tortured, they shoved a cue ball in his eye and stitched his mouth shut...he lived, only to die from his wounds two days later.
And I drive, through the mountains and over the hills of Kurdistan...my mind runs, runs away. Kids splash in wheelbarrows filled with water, folks sell Iranian gas in 10 gallons plastic containers next to the street, and Fleetwood Mac sings
"Don't stop, thinking about tomorrow,
Don't stop, it'll soon be here,
It'll be, better than before,
Yesterdays gone, yesterdays gone"
On this, our last stop for the day, we visited a house way at the top of a small hill, right down in the bottom of a breathtaking valley. The hill sits perched on the edge with picture windows from the ceiling to the floor. Needless to say, I was quite surprised at this obvious opulence, not exactly our run-of-the-mill beneficiary, until I realized what the aim of the project was.
The property is that of Sheikh Muhammed Mahmoud Abdullah. A wealthy man with connections in the right places and a family currently in London, he returned to his old Peshmerga stomping grounds, where he, himself had been blinded by the chemical attacks during Al Anfal. When he pointed in one direction across the mountains he said "Iran is about 6 hours walk that way", it was clear he knew this from experience.
Following his 6 month recovery, the good Sheikh remained in the UK, only to return and build himself what he refers to as his "Freedom House", where the bar apparently opens at 6pm and wine, beer and Rakia flows, "even in Iraq" one of us asked, to which he answers "of course yes, up here [Kurdistan] it is different", and my hunch is, no one argues with the Sheikh anyway. His servants return with a tray of chai, followed by home-grown grapes and figs, topped off with more chai and the best Iraqi sweets I've had. We discuss the 30 varieties of grapes the viticulturalist has found in the area and prod him on information about the sustainability of agribusiness with the right kind of funding.
When I ask for the bathroom he assures me there is a "western" toilet at the top, which I respectfully acknowledge but still opt for the Arabic version by the front door. (which I secretly prefer, makes squatting so much easier)
Long story short, our project funded a trellising and drip irrigation pilot project, currently implemented by a 70 year old Lebanese with a PhD from the Soviet Union who used to be the head of the fruits department in Baghdad under the previous regime. The idea is that if the village sees the Sheik's yield and quality increase, they will come begging for the technology, something that they currently shun for fear of a failing crop. Understandable of course, it's not like the Sheik needs a good yield to sustain his wine habits, but most of the folks down the hill in their mud huts surrounded by kids, do.And so, my day ends with a 2.5 hour drive back to our office in Erbil, looking out the back of our overly up armored Suburban SUV, plated vest laying too heavily on my bladder full of chai and water...I cannot seem to wrap my mind around the dichotomy between the two sides of this country. On the one side, literally, a place where one feels free, wants to hike and mountain bike, a place where communities seem to make do, perhaps not flourish, but show me a post-conflict society where that is the case, but where people can concentrate on educating their kids and dreaming of their futures, versus what I see in Baghdad. This week, again a colleague lost a family member, this time a cousin who was so brutally tortured, they shoved a cue ball in his eye and stitched his mouth shut...he lived, only to die from his wounds two days later.
And I drive, through the mountains and over the hills of Kurdistan...my mind runs, runs away. Kids splash in wheelbarrows filled with water, folks sell Iranian gas in 10 gallons plastic containers next to the street, and Fleetwood Mac sings
"Don't stop, thinking about tomorrow,
Don't stop, it'll soon be here,
It'll be, better than before,
Yesterdays gone, yesterdays gone"
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Living it up on the island of Hvar
Croatia is turning out to be one of the most wonderful places we have ever visited. And how could it not be, the people are great, the weather is FABULOUS, there is great wine and excellent beer, and you get meat with every meal. Rumor has it Croatians are "suspicious of people who don't drink".
Well, we are presently on the wonderful island of Hvar. I am actually writing this outside an internet cafe on a public square with a lovely tree covered in bougainvilla, overlooking the harbor. True to ourselves we haven't actually sat down and relaxed, instead we've gone mountain biking, taken a ferry to another island, rented scooters and explored the entire island and numerous of their wonderful wineries yesterday. Today we are diving and actually went down to 40m/120ft on our first dive, a first for us, and a heck more colder than the Red Sea. Tomorrow we have rented sea kayaks and will go exploring, just have to make sure we navigate this busy canal properly between the sail boats and all the ferries.
The weather here is wonderful, the people are great and we are having just a great time. We're here until Saturday from where we take a ferry over to Dubrovnik. I will keep you posted. Oh, and another thing, there are cute dogs EVERYWHERE!
I think we're planning on checking out the nightlife tonight, you know, leave the folks at home and come hang out with all the beautiful people from all over Europe that seems to have congregated here. Will update on how that goes.
Well, we are presently on the wonderful island of Hvar. I am actually writing this outside an internet cafe on a public square with a lovely tree covered in bougainvilla, overlooking the harbor. True to ourselves we haven't actually sat down and relaxed, instead we've gone mountain biking, taken a ferry to another island, rented scooters and explored the entire island and numerous of their wonderful wineries yesterday. Today we are diving and actually went down to 40m/120ft on our first dive, a first for us, and a heck more colder than the Red Sea. Tomorrow we have rented sea kayaks and will go exploring, just have to make sure we navigate this busy canal properly between the sail boats and all the ferries.
The weather here is wonderful, the people are great and we are having just a great time. We're here until Saturday from where we take a ferry over to Dubrovnik. I will keep you posted. Oh, and another thing, there are cute dogs EVERYWHERE!
I think we're planning on checking out the nightlife tonight, you know, leave the folks at home and come hang out with all the beautiful people from all over Europe that seems to have congregated here. Will update on how that goes.
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Zagreb
(Let me preface this by apologizing in advance for the lack of proper punctuation and any substitutions of Ys for z's and vice versa - the Croatian keyboard is a bit tricky)
So, our trip started in Amman as usual, and as seems to be the norm these days we saw a familiar face. This time it was a close friend who recently departed post for a next assignment in Angola. Surely we shared a few beers and were on the same flight to Istanbul, from where he continued onto his home in Europe to gather up his family for the long haul to the US and then onto west Africa.
Chris and I spent the night in the Airport Hotel, nothing great and certainly a bit of a rip-off, but hey, you cant beat the commute from the one end of the international terminal to the other. Bought some spices and a bottle of some Turkish licorice liqueur for our dads and boarded our flight to Zagreb with what turned out to be the Turkish, Singapore, Turkmenistan and Kazhikstanian national shooting teams. I'm telling you, I haven't had that much fire power on a plane since sharing a flight with a bunch of PSDs into Baghdad. Thankfully I told Chris for once we are off the hook at customs, that's for sure.
On final descent into Zagreb we marveled at the greenery, and realized just how much we have missed it, since we have honestly not seen any green pastures now for over 6 months (what with vacationing largely in deserts in the middle east and what not). Then I spot a small column of smoke rising from beyond one of the perfectly-manicured squares of farmland and commented that I wonder if I could ever see a thin column of smoke again in my life without thinking of a car bomb.
The airport is tiny, lacking even custom forms. We grabbed a taxi and are now enjoying two days in the beautiful Regent Esplanade Zagreb. Chris (insert apostrophe here) folks arrive tomorrow, but tonight we are planning on a traditional Croatian dinner, whatever that entails, I will be sure to update.
PS: Finished Cormac McCarthy's All the Pretty Horses on the plane today, I am hooked, very JM Coetzee'esque.
So, our trip started in Amman as usual, and as seems to be the norm these days we saw a familiar face. This time it was a close friend who recently departed post for a next assignment in Angola. Surely we shared a few beers and were on the same flight to Istanbul, from where he continued onto his home in Europe to gather up his family for the long haul to the US and then onto west Africa.
Chris and I spent the night in the Airport Hotel, nothing great and certainly a bit of a rip-off, but hey, you cant beat the commute from the one end of the international terminal to the other. Bought some spices and a bottle of some Turkish licorice liqueur for our dads and boarded our flight to Zagreb with what turned out to be the Turkish, Singapore, Turkmenistan and Kazhikstanian national shooting teams. I'm telling you, I haven't had that much fire power on a plane since sharing a flight with a bunch of PSDs into Baghdad. Thankfully I told Chris for once we are off the hook at customs, that's for sure.
On final descent into Zagreb we marveled at the greenery, and realized just how much we have missed it, since we have honestly not seen any green pastures now for over 6 months (what with vacationing largely in deserts in the middle east and what not). Then I spot a small column of smoke rising from beyond one of the perfectly-manicured squares of farmland and commented that I wonder if I could ever see a thin column of smoke again in my life without thinking of a car bomb.
The airport is tiny, lacking even custom forms. We grabbed a taxi and are now enjoying two days in the beautiful Regent Esplanade Zagreb. Chris (insert apostrophe here) folks arrive tomorrow, but tonight we are planning on a traditional Croatian dinner, whatever that entails, I will be sure to update.
PS: Finished Cormac McCarthy's All the Pretty Horses on the plane today, I am hooked, very JM Coetzee'esque.
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
Rrrrrrrrrrrrrr - R&R
Turns out that waiting over 6 months before your first real R&R is a bit much. While we took two 1-week breaks, one never really relaxes since on day 3 you already have to start planning the cab ride back to the airport. So today we are enroute to a 3-week R&R that (yes, once again) involves both sets of parents. Seems like a pretty good time to get out of the Middle East, and let me tell you, I'm packing for it too. See, I've pretty much traveled almost exclusively in the Middle East for the past year, Egypt, Jordan, Morocco, the EyeZee...that all I ever take with me is a bug-out bag (military-style backpack that will fit a Ford Explorer if you try hard enough) filled with some luna bars and a whole lot of scarves to cover up. This time, na-ah, I think I packed every tank top and summer dress this side of the Euphrates.
So, caught a Helo out to BIAP this afternoon, and I have to tell you - it must be 150 degrees in the propwash of the Black Hawk - no kidding. It's so hot your jewelry will catch your skin on fire, and the velocity of the wind through the open door makes your face move about 4 inches to the left. Still better than waiting for the Rhino and getting in at 0300 for an early morning show-time.
Anyway, heloed in, now we're at a camp at Baghdad airport where we spend the night. Took the van to the DFAC (dining facility) but were refused entry because two colleagues were wearing open-toed shoes, and I was kicked out at the second "check point" for wearing a t-shirt with no sleeves - or as they put it "no armpits!" Totally ticked-off and horrendously hungry we took another 15-min ride back to camp and decided it wasn't worth going back, instead opting for a Subway, the only real "dining" option here. Looks like its MREs for breakfast, hope I get one with M&Ms in it.
Tomorrow we take mil air to Amman, then straight to the international airport and hopefully we'll make our flight to Istanbul where we spend the night in the totally overpriced, though fabulously convenient Airport Hotel, situated in the international terminal. And Thursday onto Zagreb where we splurged and booked ourselves into the Regent Esplanade, a classic built in 1925.
Next update - Istanbul...stay tuned.
So, caught a Helo out to BIAP this afternoon, and I have to tell you - it must be 150 degrees in the propwash of the Black Hawk - no kidding. It's so hot your jewelry will catch your skin on fire, and the velocity of the wind through the open door makes your face move about 4 inches to the left. Still better than waiting for the Rhino and getting in at 0300 for an early morning show-time.
Anyway, heloed in, now we're at a camp at Baghdad airport where we spend the night. Took the van to the DFAC (dining facility) but were refused entry because two colleagues were wearing open-toed shoes, and I was kicked out at the second "check point" for wearing a t-shirt with no sleeves - or as they put it "no armpits!" Totally ticked-off and horrendously hungry we took another 15-min ride back to camp and decided it wasn't worth going back, instead opting for a Subway, the only real "dining" option here. Looks like its MREs for breakfast, hope I get one with M&Ms in it.
Tomorrow we take mil air to Amman, then straight to the international airport and hopefully we'll make our flight to Istanbul where we spend the night in the totally overpriced, though fabulously convenient Airport Hotel, situated in the international terminal. And Thursday onto Zagreb where we splurged and booked ourselves into the Regent Esplanade, a classic built in 1925.
Next update - Istanbul...stay tuned.
Sunday, July 09, 2006
Cooling trend
I saw some friends I haven't seen in quite some time, MOSQUITOS! So I knew the weather must have dropped by just enough to have the pesty buggers come out again. Sure enough, today is only 109.4F/43C. I guess bring out the citronella candles.
Home made Pizzas
We had some friends over the other night for home made pizzas on the grill. The trick is to roll the dough thick enough to easily handle, grill them on both sides, then add toppings of choice, and if you have, cover with a Webber lid or some other device to trap the eat to melt the cheese.
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Baghdad Idols
(left: the 14 first-ever Baghdad Idols contestants - I'm in black second from left)I decided it would serve my war stories collection well to utterly embarrass myself in front of a couple hundred of my closest friends, as well as a number of ambassadors and generals in town. I therefore participated in the Baghdad Idols contest, recently held at the Palace Pool stage. Not belonging to the "karaoke mob", (and hence, not familiar with the setup of backup music) I showed up with initially two friends to accompany me, which quickly grew to four, and so the terror of "the band" soon spread through my fellow 13 contestants. We sang a nice rendition of Tracy
Chapman's "Give me Reason to Stay here" (somehow seemed fitting) but alas, did not advance to the second round ( I do think the "band" was a bit too far outside the box), but what a great time we had! All the contestants were invited to perform on the final night before the sing-off between the final two contestants. A minor (okay, major) technical malfunction didn't do my slice of "American Pie" any favors, but crowd pleaser that it is, I received a hearty help-along from the crowd.(Right: "Give me one reason to stay here....and I'll turn right back around..." -better be a good one though)
Keeping us entertained
(left) Chris with relay team-mates at the awards ceremony.With a dearth of viable entertainment options, (since Bono and the "Blue Man Group" are less than likely to appear in neon lights around Baghdad anytime soon) we often have to revert to participating in events ourselves. So it was on a scortcher in May that Chris suited up
and strutted his stuff in the monthly MWR (Morale, Welfare and Recreation) swim meet hosted at the Liberty Pool. While he was the strongest starter (see the dive) he just could not beat the West Pointer nor the University of Hawaii NCAA national competitor. A silver and bronze medal will have to suffice...for now.Please note, it was so hot the participants had to douse their medals in cool water not to singe their chests!
Friday, June 30, 2006
The Nelsonator himself
Berni had portraits done of the dogs, wanted to share this handsome shot of Nelson.
For those of you who do not know him, he is a pure bred Brittany Spaniel, a close relative of the more stockey Springer Spaniel. They are wonderfully friendly, great with kids. And while active and requiring of a lot of exercise, they are also great home bodies for lounging in front of a game, and happy to entertain themselves (stalking the cat was a favorite for Nelson).
For more information, please visit the adoption agency we used to get wonderful Nelson: The American Brittany Rescue Organization. They have a full range of dogs up for adoption, do consider adopting an adult dog if you are not set on a puppy - they are so grateful and often do not get as many chances as the pups.
About a dog
Recently have been missing my pets again, terribly. While we have a bazillion cats around (one mommy who loves lying her belly on the wet sand of my garden), it is not the same as having a critter at home to welcome you, one who knows and who loves you. I miss watching TV with Nelson's head on my lap, intently watching Bliksem (the kitter) stare out the window. Paging through the Outside Magazine the other day there was the cutest picture of a dog napping on a camping trip with his peeps - and I recalled one of my favorite past times in the world - camping with my man and my dog. *sigh*
Anyway, enough of that - based on this melancholy I thought I would tell you about a book I recently read:
While I am terrible at reading novels, always opting rather for historical books on topics that interest me ("Shake Hands with the Devil" by Lt. Gen Romeo Dallaire about the Rwandan war, "Across Boundaries" autobiography of Mamphela Ramphele, South African woman leader, "A Problem from Hell", Samantha Power, about genocide and in particular America's perception, lack of engagement and responsibility surrounding acts of genocide) etc... I picked up a simply silly book recently after seeing a colleague read it at the pool. "Marley and Me" by John Grogan is an extremely easy read (took me, a notoriously slow reader only a couple of days to breeze through the large print hard edition) about a man, his family and his DOG, Marley. Many of us "issue dog" owners think we must have the "worst dog" in the world when it comes to eating our clothes, having accidents, pulling on the leash and the plethora of other "challenges" brought about by our K-9 companions, and this is exactly the premise of the book. An owner with a pre-conceived notion of what a dog should be like, only to be surprised by the different type of animal he adopts with his young wife. It follows the trials and tribulations (of which there were quite a few) to the heart-warming bond and love they have for each other.
The book is a must-read for all dog-lovers, but in particular for those of us who have raised "problem dogs". Many of you know Nelson, our heartbreakingly cute Brittany Spaniel who came to us via an adoption agency who found him as a stray in St. Lois. His stay in our condo in West LA was pretty traumatic, for him and us. He suffered severe separation anxiety that lead him into all sorts of mischief, and even allowed him, at a scrawny 38lbs, to break out of the bomb proof dog crate we tried to leave him in one day for his own safety. Many books, training advice, two different types of "doggy prozac" and thousands of dollars in home repairs (including my single-handed tile job of the entire ground floor of our condominium after cleaning the carpet once too many) and doggy daycare, Nelson is now a well-adapted, loving, less terrified, personable, and even (almost) dog-loving animal living it up in the Downtown LA scene with his new mom and newfound sister Tir'na (with regular run-ins with Hollywood stars including Robin Williams in his elevator recently I've been told)
Stacy, Fiona, Marie and everyone else I know who have raised or grew up with a "dog with issues" (or Lois, Larry, Berni, and everyone else who have doggy-sat the Nelsonator for us) will be well served to read this book. I read and cried for days, it is a very heart-warming story (Chris freaked out one night when he got home from a poker game to find me balling my eyes out on the couch).
(Stac, Lois & Berni - As the Nelsonator's prize babysitter, auntie and now new mom, your copies are in the mail)
For anyone else interested, you can find it here.
(PS: I am currently reading Cormac McCarthy's "All the Pretty Horses", amazing writing is all I can say)
Monday, June 26, 2006
What does $31 billion look like??
(Photo: Gatesfoundation.org)Wow, because that is what Warren Buffet is handing over to the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation - an amount equal to 85% of his net worth. The caveat is that Bill & Melinda must remain actively involved in the programs. What is amazing is Warren's quote "I don't believe in creating a dynasty of wealth....I don't believe that people who aspire to be democratic should not aspire to have a dynasty of wealth..." He continues to say that he doesn't believe people should gain a privileged position in society simply because they were born in the right place. (This is in response to a question by a reporter on what Mr. Buffet's children might have done wrong to not get this money).
Asked whether there is a trend in "doing good" Bill Gates commented that they would like to "Get more of the people who are super lucky to give back to the world" and that the Gates' will continue to try and show people that it is "fun" to do good.
The contribution will double the Gates Foundation endowment, and Bill and Melinda will have their work cut out for them to spend all this money.
For more information visit:
Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation
Berkshire Hathaway Inc.
Footnote: Amidst all the questions of breadth vs. width of programmatic impacts of the Gates Foundation; how closely Mr. Buffet has worked with the Gates' family; how Berkshire Hathaway Inc. is taking the news of the development; the impact of the transaction on his company's stock; where his philantrophic interest comes from etc...the question from FOX NEWS had to be "Uh, Mr. Buffet, it seems cemented now that your children will not get the majority of your wealth, how did you break the news to them, and what did they say". Wow. Here is a man giving money to aid hundreds of millions of people, being asked what his three millionaire children, all of which I believe he said are in charge of their own billion-dollar foundations, said at not receiving more money that is even conceavably spendable by a large foundation such as the Gates'. Typical. Reminds me why I don't watch the news over here.
Sunday, June 25, 2006
Yes, it's THAT hot...
We've all heard the "feels like a hair dryer" slurr, so I'll spare you.
Let's just say, you know it's hot when:
1. your jewelry burns your skin on the walk from your hootch to the office
2. the neighborhood cat can't wait for you to water the garden so she can lay with her belly on the cool sand
3. speaking of a garden, it looks like someone took a zippo lighter to your cosmos
4. you can drink a gallon of water with breakfast without the "urge to go"
and my favorite
5. you know it's hot when you have to turn your hot water heater into a water cooler (Chris and I finally reverted to flipping the switch after the water tank storing all water to the house, convenientely located in a black plastic container on our roof, in 120 degrees, had us devoid of any water remotely cool - instead, our water heater inside the bathroom, in the off-position, now serves as a water cooler:)
Fortunately we seem to be on a cooling trend. Instead of last week's 119F/49C scorchers, we'll be enjoying 114F/46C days for most of the rest of the week.
Let's just say, you know it's hot when:
1. your jewelry burns your skin on the walk from your hootch to the office
2. the neighborhood cat can't wait for you to water the garden so she can lay with her belly on the cool sand
3. speaking of a garden, it looks like someone took a zippo lighter to your cosmos
4. you can drink a gallon of water with breakfast without the "urge to go"
and my favorite
5. you know it's hot when you have to turn your hot water heater into a water cooler (Chris and I finally reverted to flipping the switch after the water tank storing all water to the house, convenientely located in a black plastic container on our roof, in 120 degrees, had us devoid of any water remotely cool - instead, our water heater inside the bathroom, in the off-position, now serves as a water cooler:)
Fortunately we seem to be on a cooling trend. Instead of last week's 119F/49C scorchers, we'll be enjoying 114F/46C days for most of the rest of the week.
Friday, June 23, 2006
Baghdad Idols!
While I know I am in hot water for not posting about Morocco yet, I thought a funny piece of news you could all enjoy in the meantime is that I am participating in round 1 of the, yes, it is true, BAGHDAD IDOLS tonight! I know you're waiting for the story about our car being towed in Marrakesh for parking practically on the front steps of the Post Office (which happens to be situated on the main town square), but the laugh from this should get you through the long drought of posts.
Of course we'll take pictures, and while the focus is much more on the soldiers participating (as it should be) there is a smattering of DoS and contractors in the mix, I'll let you know if we get any international coverage ;)
Of course we'll take pictures, and while the focus is much more on the soldiers participating (as it should be) there is a smattering of DoS and contractors in the mix, I'll let you know if we get any international coverage ;)
Sunday, June 18, 2006
Happy Father's Day!
To all the dads we know - may you have a blessed day spent with kids if you are fortunate enough to be near, or with them in your heart if you are not.
We wish you all the best!
Susan & Chris
We wish you all the best!
Susan & Chris
To a Dad, from a Daughter
Pa Marx:
I often realize just how many things there are that I take for granted. My dad is no different. Even with the curfews, the strict rules on the car, the "shouldn't you be studying" in the middle of the Friends episode, and the sarcastic remarks pertaining to missing material in my outfits that cost him so much money, the man truly is irreplaceable.
Where else would I have learned about parma ham wrapped around honey dew melon, or how to start a fire by torching the entire bag of charcoal (something I have done on occasion to the delight of my Baghdad friends), or the intense pleasure one can derive from the weirdest of pets including tortoises and obnoxious little dogs. Who else would I have trusted to call that fateful night when I knew my date was too intoxicated to drive me home from a party, and where oh where would I get my daily "where the "*&^%$#@" are you" emails if he doesn't hear from me every morning before 10am (at least while I'm stationed in Baghdad).
And where would I have witnessed with my own eyes an entire reconstructive surgery on a small Venter trailer (a common addiction in middle class South African holiday-making families) who has certainly outlived itself by at least 10 years thanks to the dedication, perseverance and good soldering skills of my favorite engineer. Not to mention the soup - but please, do me a favor, and never ask him for the recipe, for it is always the same "damn, this one's so good, I really WISH I wrote this one down".
Most importantly where would I have learned about respect, hard work and integrity but from my pa. He remains (yes, with Chris a close second) the smartest man I know (and in his case damn handy too - there is not a thing he cannot fix). But more over, despite his own success he remains the humblest of anyone I know (judged by the 10-year old Toyota Camry he parks next to his colleagues' 7-series and SL500s, driven to begin with only because he gave his beloved 1987 Toyota Corolla to a former colleague in need).
Pa, you are an inspiration, a blessing, a hero, you taught me how important it is to appreciate nature and the struggles of those less fortunate than I. I love you and respect you hope to make you proud too. (Come 'on, at least I have a "real" job now... hehe)
Gelukkige Vadersdag
Dogter Marx
I often realize just how many things there are that I take for granted. My dad is no different. Even with the curfews, the strict rules on the car, the "shouldn't you be studying" in the middle of the Friends episode, and the sarcastic remarks pertaining to missing material in my outfits that cost him so much money, the man truly is irreplaceable.
Where else would I have learned about parma ham wrapped around honey dew melon, or how to start a fire by torching the entire bag of charcoal (something I have done on occasion to the delight of my Baghdad friends), or the intense pleasure one can derive from the weirdest of pets including tortoises and obnoxious little dogs. Who else would I have trusted to call that fateful night when I knew my date was too intoxicated to drive me home from a party, and where oh where would I get my daily "where the "*&^%$#@" are you" emails if he doesn't hear from me every morning before 10am (at least while I'm stationed in Baghdad).
And where would I have witnessed with my own eyes an entire reconstructive surgery on a small Venter trailer (a common addiction in middle class South African holiday-making families) who has certainly outlived itself by at least 10 years thanks to the dedication, perseverance and good soldering skills of my favorite engineer. Not to mention the soup - but please, do me a favor, and never ask him for the recipe, for it is always the same "damn, this one's so good, I really WISH I wrote this one down".
Most importantly where would I have learned about respect, hard work and integrity but from my pa. He remains (yes, with Chris a close second) the smartest man I know (and in his case damn handy too - there is not a thing he cannot fix). But more over, despite his own success he remains the humblest of anyone I know (judged by the 10-year old Toyota Camry he parks next to his colleagues' 7-series and SL500s, driven to begin with only because he gave his beloved 1987 Toyota Corolla to a former colleague in need).
Pa, you are an inspiration, a blessing, a hero, you taught me how important it is to appreciate nature and the struggles of those less fortunate than I. I love you and respect you hope to make you proud too. (Come 'on, at least I have a "real" job now... hehe)
Gelukkige Vadersdag
Dogter Marx
Saturday, June 17, 2006
Just a Saturday
A lovely day here in the IZ today, slightly hot, but not too bad. Working today, so sadly not at the pool. Had a little going-away gathering for our good friend JP who is leaving next week. Always sad to see friends go, but I suppose it is the transient nature of this place. He is off to Indonesia next and has assured us that there is room in his 3-bedroom condo for us to come and visit. Hm, Bali anyone?
Looks like we won't be breaking the 50 degree Celcius mark just quite yet this week, but I will let you know. Check out the weather prospects for us for the next week.
5 DAY FORECAST
Saturday 116°F (47°C) 84°F (29°C)
Sunday 115°F (46°C) 84°F (29°C)
Monday 117°F (47°C) 85°F (29°C)
Tuesday 118°F (48°C) 86°F (30°C)
Wednesday 118°F (48°C) 83°F (28°C)
Thursday 120°F (49°C)
(*CNN Weather and Weather Channel)
Looks like we won't be breaking the 50 degree Celcius mark just quite yet this week, but I will let you know. Check out the weather prospects for us for the next week.
5 DAY FORECAST
Saturday 116°F (47°C) 84°F (29°C)
Sunday 115°F (46°C) 84°F (29°C)
Monday 117°F (47°C) 85°F (29°C)
Tuesday 118°F (48°C) 86°F (30°C)
Wednesday 118°F (48°C) 83°F (28°C)
Thursday 120°F (49°C)
(*CNN Weather and Weather Channel)
Wednesday, June 14, 2006
Back in Baghdad
Our parents find the irony to be a bit much, but we arrived back in the IZ safe after a pretty harrowing travel schedule that included a 6am departure out of the coastal town of Essaouira for the 5 hour drive to Casablanca, flight to Istanbul, 4 hours on the airport, flight to Amman, 3am arrival, shower and 1:45min nap, another 6am departure for the GA airport for our AirServ flight back into Baghdad, and then a 4 hour wait at the Landing Zone for a helicopter with room for us. I haven't downloaded my photos yet, will do so this weekend and post some of them here, and probably host the rest on an online photo service and let you know - there are simply too many great ones to choose from. Morocco is seriously the most photogenic place I have ever seen.
In other news, Chris got to see POTUS at the palace that houses the embassy during his surprise visit to Baghdad, after he was "locked down" following a meeting there.
In other news, Chris got to see POTUS at the palace that houses the embassy during his surprise visit to Baghdad, after he was "locked down" following a meeting there.
Tuesday, June 06, 2006
Fabulous Fez
Fez is amazing. Everywhere a true feast for the senses. We are here with our dear friends from South Africa, Cobus and Corne and are having the best time. Due to an Arabic keyboard in a 120 degree cyber cafe, this will have to be short. We are here during the world Sacred music festival and plan on attending that tonight. We will write more again soon, but first, back to the souk for some serious shopping. Tomorrow we will visit the famous Fez tanneries and then we drive down to Marrakesh. Masalama
Friday, June 02, 2006
Good luck Santa Monica Rugby Team!
The team travels by bus to San Diego tomorrow for the Mens Division I Final Four tournament. As defending champions, the dolphins will take on Las Vegas in the opening round. I am eagerly awaiting text message updates from the field. We will be in transit through Amman to Morocco. All I want to know is, who will fill my shoes as drummer this year?
GOOD LUCK DOLPHINS!
The Santa Monica Rugby club, more than just a team.
11 sides and over 200 members and counting.
GOOD LUCK DOLPHINS!
The Santa Monica Rugby club, more than just a team.
11 sides and over 200 members and counting.
Thursday, June 01, 2006
Latest Update
Welcome back to Khuluma! (happy Lois?) my old (and now future) stomping ground. Apologies for the inconvenience, but this way I can continue posting long after the dust has settled on my Baghdad experience.
That being said - Baghdad is still keeping us as busy as always. Working hard, trying to stay cool (NOT real successful - at least not at 118F/48C). But still having a blast. The latest news is that we are getting ready for a short "Regional Rest Break" or RRB to Morocco - whoohoo! And we're doing this with our dear friends, Cobus & Corne from South Africa. I will of course find the internet cafe shortly after the bathroom upon arrival in the old cities of Fes, Marrakesh and then Essauoria. Very thrilled, have always wanted to visit.
That's it for now, just wanted to check in and let you know that the posts are going up bit by bit as I have time to move them over from Baghdadblogster. Drop us a line and let us know how things are going! (Thanks for the emails of concern while the site was down, I know now that Mr. Gene K is addicted to the blog!)
That being said - Baghdad is still keeping us as busy as always. Working hard, trying to stay cool (NOT real successful - at least not at 118F/48C). But still having a blast. The latest news is that we are getting ready for a short "Regional Rest Break" or RRB to Morocco - whoohoo! And we're doing this with our dear friends, Cobus & Corne from South Africa. I will of course find the internet cafe shortly after the bathroom upon arrival in the old cities of Fes, Marrakesh and then Essauoria. Very thrilled, have always wanted to visit.
That's it for now, just wanted to check in and let you know that the posts are going up bit by bit as I have time to move them over from Baghdadblogster. Drop us a line and let us know how things are going! (Thanks for the emails of concern while the site was down, I know now that Mr. Gene K is addicted to the blog!)
Monday, May 29, 2006
Friday, May 26, 2006
Tandem'ing...
There is always a lot of talk about conflict of interests and unfair favoring and other similar "charges" when couples work together. Yet, there is a very distinct other side of the coin that is much less explored, understood or appreciated. The good things of hiring couples. Certainly working together is not for everyone, and many people prefer to keep "work" and "home" separate, but let me tell you, I have loved every minute of it.
Chris and I have been working together now for the past four months. While we are in different sections, we all share one massive office building, neatly divided into cubicles. Thus, we see each other pretty much 24-7, or if not, at least can hear each other across the room. I sit near the entrance of the building and enjoy the frequent stops he makes at my desk shuttling to and fro from meetings. Similarly I love having lunch with him and our friends in the cafeteria, and best of all, we understand the stresses and demands that this place puts on each other.
In addition, we have found that we work very well together. Take the other night, for instance, he got a very late request for a presentation to include in to the Government of Iraq 100-day plan report, and I offered to help (kinda part of my job to assist with any and all information requests that comes in) - we sat down, and literally 30 minutes later we had finished what would take me hours with someone else. The reason? We know each other so well, we practically complete each other sentences, and we know how the other one thinks, where not to interfere and also how the other gets things done. It was great. Surely a benefit to an organization to have this level of productivity and hire people who actually like each other.
Chris and I have been working together now for the past four months. While we are in different sections, we all share one massive office building, neatly divided into cubicles. Thus, we see each other pretty much 24-7, or if not, at least can hear each other across the room. I sit near the entrance of the building and enjoy the frequent stops he makes at my desk shuttling to and fro from meetings. Similarly I love having lunch with him and our friends in the cafeteria, and best of all, we understand the stresses and demands that this place puts on each other.
In addition, we have found that we work very well together. Take the other night, for instance, he got a very late request for a presentation to include in to the Government of Iraq 100-day plan report, and I offered to help (kinda part of my job to assist with any and all information requests that comes in) - we sat down, and literally 30 minutes later we had finished what would take me hours with someone else. The reason? We know each other so well, we practically complete each other sentences, and we know how the other one thinks, where not to interfere and also how the other gets things done. It was great. Surely a benefit to an organization to have this level of productivity and hire people who actually like each other.
Tuesday, May 23, 2006
midnight oil...
...where has the time gone since my last post. But hey, nothing like no dinner other than a handful of reese's peanut butter cups at 1:30am in a deserted office building to use as an excuse!
Crazy, crazy week. I promise to write more, and I know I still owe you the pictures of my garden, I now have many flowers! So exciting. Thanks for the care packages from mom and dad.
Okay...off to bed, 300 m to my hooch...willl,....she....maaakkke...iittt...zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Crazy, crazy week. I promise to write more, and I know I still owe you the pictures of my garden, I now have many flowers! So exciting. Thanks for the care packages from mom and dad.
Okay...off to bed, 300 m to my hooch...willl,....she....maaakkke...iittt...zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Friday, May 19, 2006
Travel Tips for Amman, Jordan
I have been meaning to do a little "Amman Tips" post ever since I returned from my hectic one-week business trip to the ancient city for the "Rebuild Iraq" conference. First of all, Jordan is great. Not only does it have fantastic sites to visit (Petra for one, which I have not had the pleasure of visiting), but the people are great, food is wonderful and hospitality is sky high.
Food:
Get out of the hotels. While there are some good restaurants in some of the five star hotels, chances are you will find comparable and much cheaper outside, every time.
**May I suggest Ren Chai (Third Circle, Tel. +962 4 625 777) for Chinese food (where I recently saw the late King Hussein's brother). Located in an architectural house in a neighborhood (hence the lack of directions, trust me, this city is a maze).
**For lamb-lovers, you simply have to venture out to the street corner opposite the Four Seasons Hotel (same side of the road as the Sheraton) to this indoor-outdoor dining facility, recognizable for its red awning. Here you will roll out for no more than a few US dollars per person. Note: low fat is not an option. Marvel in the kebabs, tawook and best lamb chops this side of the equator.
**For a steak though, I suggest the "Library" cigar lounge and steak house in the Marriott Hotel. They serve Australian Grade A beef, and may I say that my fillet mignon was "like buttah". Order the South Africa KWV Cabarnet to round off the experience.
**I had fabulous Lebanese food at the place opposite Caraffa, but cannot recall it's name, I can however pass on information about it's more famous brother: Deir El Qamar (Abdoun, Tel. +962 5 934 666).
**There is rumored to be good Sushi at the Howard Johnson Hotel, I will report back after my next trip.
Haircut:
As most every female who work in Iraq, I decided to get a haircut on my last day in Amman for fear of a "high and tight" at the barber in the palace. I enquired about my options from guest relations where I was told that the Hyatt's hairdresser relocated to the La Royale Hotel across the street. I called them up, JD30 for a haircut. Okay, so about $45, not cheap, but not ridiculous. Downstairs I thought I would just ask about "non-hotel" affiliated institutions, the girl pointed me to a salon around the corner where I was bound to pay about JD10-15. I thought "half price", worth checking out. The salon was on a busy shopping street, with two friendly non-English speaking attendants in the front. I enquired about the price and was surprised to find it was JD3 (including a great scalp-massaging wash)!! Heck, cut it twice! So for about $5 I got a decent haircut and splurged on a blow dry for another $5. Whoohoo, nothing like a bargain.
Taxis
Taxis in Amman are abundant. If you plan on only visiting the city the need for a car is small, particularly if you are not an accomplished bumper car driver, nor speak fluent "Arabic sign language". Use the cabs, they are all yellow, everywhere, and will know how to get your places you will never be able to find in this hilltop city.
Be aware: "If you have to ask, you're going to get ripped off". Do not, I repeat, do NOT ask the taxi driver "how much". Just reach over and hand him a couple Dinars. And if you pay him JD2, you've already double-paid. Most every ride in the city (with the exception of the airports and longer trips like to the US Embassy) will be JD1.
NOTE: The meter (if there even is one) is in cents or the Jordanian equivalent. So if you see 9.80, please, don't give the guy JD10 (about $16), rather just hand him a dinar and be on your way. For this very reason a friend told me to get JD50 in one JD bills. While you feel a bit like one of the Hoffa's with this wad of cash, it comes in very handy.
Security
Like adding time for traffic in NY and LA, add extra time for security in Amman. You will have to be searched before entering any of the five star hotels. I commented that it will be a shock to my system to go somewhere again without having to "spread 'em" and open my bag for the lady to search through my random purse accoutrements.
NOTE: Do not take pictures of the La Royale Hotel, the monstrously large hotel on the hill opposite the Hyatt. Rumored to be partially owned by the Husseins (yes, those Husseins) complete with 4th floor offices, the gentlemen in the old black Mercedes' vehicles frown upon tourists snapping shots of this prized "food for oil" institution. (Hint, go up to your room and snap the picture from the comfort of your own picture window).
Hotels
Four Seasons: Best service, rooms are over-rated perhaps but very spacious, great bar, good lounge for meeting purposes, wonderful breakfast, fabulous spa, BEST little conditioners ever.
Hyatt: Nice and new (*sic*), nice rooms, great gym and spa, indoor outdoor pools, great breakfast, downside: only a sports bar, so nowhere to have a quite one after work. Also, there is a lot of continued construction, so don't expect to sleep in or nap on your day off.
Sheraton: A bit gaudy at the entrance (lots of green and gold), haven't seen spa or gym, great art gallery but will close soon, the room I saw didn't impress me, particularly the bathroom - looked like a Holiday Inn bathroom, again, nice bar for after-work drink
Intercontinental: All about the business traveler and conference facility. Large lounge with free WiFi, so great for staying in touch with HQ, great established art gallery and a wonderful jewelry shop outside. Best business center I found.
Marriott: It's all about the steak. Haven't seen anything but the entrance.
There are others, but these are the ones I have been in. Oh well, just a few hints in case you ever have to go through Amman enroute somewhere. I look forward to visit some of the city and the country's treasures including the monuments, ruins, dead sea (I've only done it from the other side many years ago). I also met a great driver, Abdullah, who I plan to use again when I transit through there in a few weeks. He was so sweet and even text'd me to make sure I made it back to Baghdad safely.
Food:
Get out of the hotels. While there are some good restaurants in some of the five star hotels, chances are you will find comparable and much cheaper outside, every time.
**May I suggest Ren Chai (Third Circle, Tel. +962 4 625 777) for Chinese food (where I recently saw the late King Hussein's brother). Located in an architectural house in a neighborhood (hence the lack of directions, trust me, this city is a maze).
**For lamb-lovers, you simply have to venture out to the street corner opposite the Four Seasons Hotel (same side of the road as the Sheraton) to this indoor-outdoor dining facility, recognizable for its red awning. Here you will roll out for no more than a few US dollars per person. Note: low fat is not an option. Marvel in the kebabs, tawook and best lamb chops this side of the equator.
**For a steak though, I suggest the "Library" cigar lounge and steak house in the Marriott Hotel. They serve Australian Grade A beef, and may I say that my fillet mignon was "like buttah". Order the South Africa KWV Cabarnet to round off the experience.
**I had fabulous Lebanese food at the place opposite Caraffa, but cannot recall it's name, I can however pass on information about it's more famous brother: Deir El Qamar (Abdoun, Tel. +962 5 934 666).
**There is rumored to be good Sushi at the Howard Johnson Hotel, I will report back after my next trip.
Haircut:
As most every female who work in Iraq, I decided to get a haircut on my last day in Amman for fear of a "high and tight" at the barber in the palace. I enquired about my options from guest relations where I was told that the Hyatt's hairdresser relocated to the La Royale Hotel across the street. I called them up, JD30 for a haircut. Okay, so about $45, not cheap, but not ridiculous. Downstairs I thought I would just ask about "non-hotel" affiliated institutions, the girl pointed me to a salon around the corner where I was bound to pay about JD10-15. I thought "half price", worth checking out. The salon was on a busy shopping street, with two friendly non-English speaking attendants in the front. I enquired about the price and was surprised to find it was JD3 (including a great scalp-massaging wash)!! Heck, cut it twice! So for about $5 I got a decent haircut and splurged on a blow dry for another $5. Whoohoo, nothing like a bargain.
Taxis
Taxis in Amman are abundant. If you plan on only visiting the city the need for a car is small, particularly if you are not an accomplished bumper car driver, nor speak fluent "Arabic sign language". Use the cabs, they are all yellow, everywhere, and will know how to get your places you will never be able to find in this hilltop city.
Be aware: "If you have to ask, you're going to get ripped off". Do not, I repeat, do NOT ask the taxi driver "how much". Just reach over and hand him a couple Dinars. And if you pay him JD2, you've already double-paid. Most every ride in the city (with the exception of the airports and longer trips like to the US Embassy) will be JD1.
NOTE: The meter (if there even is one) is in cents or the Jordanian equivalent. So if you see 9.80, please, don't give the guy JD10 (about $16), rather just hand him a dinar and be on your way. For this very reason a friend told me to get JD50 in one JD bills. While you feel a bit like one of the Hoffa's with this wad of cash, it comes in very handy.
Security
Like adding time for traffic in NY and LA, add extra time for security in Amman. You will have to be searched before entering any of the five star hotels. I commented that it will be a shock to my system to go somewhere again without having to "spread 'em" and open my bag for the lady to search through my random purse accoutrements.
NOTE: Do not take pictures of the La Royale Hotel, the monstrously large hotel on the hill opposite the Hyatt. Rumored to be partially owned by the Husseins (yes, those Husseins) complete with 4th floor offices, the gentlemen in the old black Mercedes' vehicles frown upon tourists snapping shots of this prized "food for oil" institution. (Hint, go up to your room and snap the picture from the comfort of your own picture window).
Hotels
Four Seasons: Best service, rooms are over-rated perhaps but very spacious, great bar, good lounge for meeting purposes, wonderful breakfast, fabulous spa, BEST little conditioners ever.
Hyatt: Nice and new (*sic*), nice rooms, great gym and spa, indoor outdoor pools, great breakfast, downside: only a sports bar, so nowhere to have a quite one after work. Also, there is a lot of continued construction, so don't expect to sleep in or nap on your day off.
Sheraton: A bit gaudy at the entrance (lots of green and gold), haven't seen spa or gym, great art gallery but will close soon, the room I saw didn't impress me, particularly the bathroom - looked like a Holiday Inn bathroom, again, nice bar for after-work drink
Intercontinental: All about the business traveler and conference facility. Large lounge with free WiFi, so great for staying in touch with HQ, great established art gallery and a wonderful jewelry shop outside. Best business center I found.
Marriott: It's all about the steak. Haven't seen anything but the entrance.
There are others, but these are the ones I have been in. Oh well, just a few hints in case you ever have to go through Amman enroute somewhere. I look forward to visit some of the city and the country's treasures including the monuments, ruins, dead sea (I've only done it from the other side many years ago). I also met a great driver, Abdullah, who I plan to use again when I transit through there in a few weeks. He was so sweet and even text'd me to make sure I made it back to Baghdad safely.
Thursday, May 18, 2006
We want YOU!
I mentioned a couple months ago this great guy, an Army Major, I met out at BIAP at a Public Affairs Conference. Turns out he lives steps from where I used to live in Venice, CA. Anyway, here is a funny post on AmericaBlog about his job in LA as the "Hollywood Liason". Apparently they use this as a strong recruiting tool to get kids to sign up for the military, failing of course, to tell them there are only two of these positions for the Army, and a mere six in the Navy. Good luck drawing that lotto ticket!
US military recruiters promising jobs as "Hollywood Liaisons"
by John in DC - 5/16/2006 11:22:00 AM
Oh, this is precious. There's a military recruiting Web site (that I'm told is being promoted on United Airlines flights, not clear why) that is promising kids, right there on its home page, that if they join the US military they can become "journalists, musicians, [and] Hollywood liaisons." (The video on the United flights apparently makes the same "Hollywood Liaision" promise.)Yes, Hollywood liaisons.
The site mentions "Hollywood liaisons" as a possible military career thirteen times.Iraq, on the other hand, is only mentioned four times.
Osama, death and dismemberment don't merit a mention at all.
Comment myCount('114779323425666115');
s (116) Permanent Link
US military recruiters promising jobs as "Hollywood Liaisons"
by John in DC - 5/16/2006 11:22:00 AM
Oh, this is precious. There's a military recruiting Web site (that I'm told is being promoted on United Airlines flights, not clear why) that is promising kids, right there on its home page, that if they join the US military they can become "journalists, musicians, [and] Hollywood liaisons." (The video on the United flights apparently makes the same "Hollywood Liaision" promise.)Yes, Hollywood liaisons.
The site mentions "Hollywood liaisons" as a possible military career thirteen times.Iraq, on the other hand, is only mentioned four times.
Osama, death and dismemberment don't merit a mention at all.
Comment myCount('114779323425666115');
s (116) Permanent Link
Sunday, May 14, 2006
Santa Monica Rugby through to final four!
Santa Monica Rugby Club has done it again. In a few weeks they will take to the familiar San Diego pitch to battle it out against Las Vegas in a bid to reach the finals for the national championship title, yet again. Final score Santa Monica 20 Olympic 12. CONGRATULATIONS everyone!
Mil Air and me
[View of the C-130 from behind]Wow, if you've never been inside a C-130, it's a trip. On my recent flight over to Amman for the "Rebuild Iraq" conference I got to go onto the flight deck. Not something a Cessna pilot takes lightly. I guess what surprised me most was how "old"
the plane was. The controls were all familiar to me (almost identical to the controls in the 1970s Cessna's I scootered around in CA), albeit a gazillion more of them! The crew was awesome, what a treat![And my favorite, the view from the FRONT]
Saturday, May 13, 2006
USA Rugby Sweet 16 round one
In the first round of the USA sweet 16 rugby play-offs in South Carolina, Chris' former team The Santa Monica Dolphins met up with his most recent team, New Haven Old Blacks. The score probably has a lot to do with Santa Monica's notoriously big front row, as they finished the day with 50-8.
Congratulations to both teams, and THANKS Tommy for the 1am phone call to share your woes with us...
Congratulations to both teams, and THANKS Tommy for the 1am phone call to share your woes with us...
Back in Baghdad
Flew back from Amman yesterday. Abdullah (my now somewhat permanent driver in Amman) picked me up at the hotel and we had a pleasant drive and discussion about the peaceful mixed Christian/Muslim community he lives in outside Amman.
Flight was fine, same South African crew as always. When they took my backpack on the tarmac for being too large for the overhead, I noticed the guy's name was Afrikaans so whispered to him to be careful "ek het vier bottels wyn in die sak". He nodded, later on wanted to know what kind of wine, since he may not give me the bag back :)
As always a trip to come in on that corkscrew landing. This time was particularly severe and I remember noting to the rather large British PSD sitting next to me that whoever was flying this plane had an incredible handle on the aircraft. Let's just say a small jet is not supposed to be able to do what a Cessna does - turns out it's a female pilot.
At BIAP I breezed through the visa line (gotto love the Dip passport) only to be harassed by a cleaning boy in the ladies room who decided he had the right to stroke my arm when I didn't have money to give him for using the disgusting toilet. Almost had ourselves a little diplomatic incident, so I just left.
Somehow I managed to get on a Helo (again), with three paintings and all. Incredibly enough so far, every time when I come back from somewhere with too much luggage I inadvertently run into someone I know, this time was no different, the nice Colonel who is my spinning instructor on Tues and Thursday mornings was very kind to help me haul the paintings on and off the helo. (hey! If I'm going to be living in the place where all civilization started, I am going to have something to show for it!)
Today is hot, hot, hot - I'm trying to catch up and read through the 250 emails I have piled up, but first, I think we'll head to the pool for a few hours. I have lots to tell and talk about, stay tuned (photos too).
Flight was fine, same South African crew as always. When they took my backpack on the tarmac for being too large for the overhead, I noticed the guy's name was Afrikaans so whispered to him to be careful "ek het vier bottels wyn in die sak". He nodded, later on wanted to know what kind of wine, since he may not give me the bag back :)
As always a trip to come in on that corkscrew landing. This time was particularly severe and I remember noting to the rather large British PSD sitting next to me that whoever was flying this plane had an incredible handle on the aircraft. Let's just say a small jet is not supposed to be able to do what a Cessna does - turns out it's a female pilot.
At BIAP I breezed through the visa line (gotto love the Dip passport) only to be harassed by a cleaning boy in the ladies room who decided he had the right to stroke my arm when I didn't have money to give him for using the disgusting toilet. Almost had ourselves a little diplomatic incident, so I just left.
Somehow I managed to get on a Helo (again), with three paintings and all. Incredibly enough so far, every time when I come back from somewhere with too much luggage I inadvertently run into someone I know, this time was no different, the nice Colonel who is my spinning instructor on Tues and Thursday mornings was very kind to help me haul the paintings on and off the helo. (hey! If I'm going to be living in the place where all civilization started, I am going to have something to show for it!)
Today is hot, hot, hot - I'm trying to catch up and read through the 250 emails I have piled up, but first, I think we'll head to the pool for a few hours. I have lots to tell and talk about, stay tuned (photos too).
Monday, May 08, 2006
Celebrity sighting over dinner...
A typical "celebrity sighting" in Jordan last night I suppose, the brother of late King Hussein, Prince Mohammed, brushed by our table at Ren Chai around 22:00 accompanied by a slew of family and caretakers. That clarified the security and military entourage flanking the building.
Turns out royalty likes to dine out too.
Turns out royalty likes to dine out too.
The Amman Art Scene
Amman, Jordan to me, used to be a city with bad airline connections (flights inadvertently arrive and depart between 01:30 and 04:00) where I get to spend a night on the government's dime in a five star hotel with a bathtub and a fabulous breakfast. Yesterday however, I got to see another side of this city, which is truly a place worth visiting on its own merits.
After our conference today (more to follow later), my boss decided to "initiate" me into the art scene of Amman. We started at "The Gallery" in the Inter Continental Hotel where we had our conference to promote Information and Communications Technology alliances between international and Iraqi firms. Here I was introduced to the art of Mohanna Durra, pretty much the Michelangelo of Jordan from what I could gather. Of course, I fell in love with a 1975 charcoal portrait he did...[let's see, how to convince Chris it's an "investment" and "our kids will go to college someday because of this..."] hehe.
We then went to the best craft/textile/rug/antique/pottery - just BEST store ever, and I've seen my share of Souks, markets, bazaars, flea markets, shops and stands... this was good, and I mean good. Ahmed, the incredibly friendly and helpful owner knows each and every piece. He also knows my boss well enough to know exactly what she would like. He has a two story gallery of textiles, rugs, pottery, jewelry, silver, bronze, wood work, furniture, chests, pillowcases, bead work, Bedouin art, clothing - you name it, he has it. All original, all known to him. It was, to say the least, heaven to be in there. I bought an 80-year old Bedouin "storage sack" which Bedouins stuffed and then slung over the camels during their treks, as well as a 60-70 year old rug and a coffee grinder (as in big and manual) of around the same time period.
At the next gallery, 4-walls, located inside the Sheraton, I fell in love with two more Mohanna Durra and I realize that I have to buy one of his pieces. Born in 1938 Mr. Durra is not healthy and he is not producing much lately. What is more, he does not do portraits anymore at all, therefore I am thinking that I might have to burden myself with a portrait of the great Jordanian master.
Stay tuned to see if I end up with a painting...
After our conference today (more to follow later), my boss decided to "initiate" me into the art scene of Amman. We started at "The Gallery" in the Inter Continental Hotel where we had our conference to promote Information and Communications Technology alliances between international and Iraqi firms. Here I was introduced to the art of Mohanna Durra, pretty much the Michelangelo of Jordan from what I could gather. Of course, I fell in love with a 1975 charcoal portrait he did...[let's see, how to convince Chris it's an "investment" and "our kids will go to college someday because of this..."] hehe.
We then went to the best craft/textile/rug/antique/pottery - just BEST store ever, and I've seen my share of Souks, markets, bazaars, flea markets, shops and stands... this was good, and I mean good. Ahmed, the incredibly friendly and helpful owner knows each and every piece. He also knows my boss well enough to know exactly what she would like. He has a two story gallery of textiles, rugs, pottery, jewelry, silver, bronze, wood work, furniture, chests, pillowcases, bead work, Bedouin art, clothing - you name it, he has it. All original, all known to him. It was, to say the least, heaven to be in there. I bought an 80-year old Bedouin "storage sack" which Bedouins stuffed and then slung over the camels during their treks, as well as a 60-70 year old rug and a coffee grinder (as in big and manual) of around the same time period.
At the next gallery, 4-walls, located inside the Sheraton, I fell in love with two more Mohanna Durra and I realize that I have to buy one of his pieces. Born in 1938 Mr. Durra is not healthy and he is not producing much lately. What is more, he does not do portraits anymore at all, therefore I am thinking that I might have to burden myself with a portrait of the great Jordanian master.
Stay tuned to see if I end up with a painting...
Sunday, May 07, 2006
The "other" Iraq
A reminder that not everyone over here is as lucky as I am to live within the obliviousness of the IZ:
"Dude, so we had to sit there all night and watch that tank burn with that dude in it..."
[Conversation overheard between a group of army enlisted men at the staging area of Baghdad International Airport]
"Dude, so we had to sit there all night and watch that tank burn with that dude in it..."
[Conversation overheard between a group of army enlisted men at the staging area of Baghdad International Airport]
Friday, May 05, 2006
Scavenger hunt for our New Haven friends...
Okay, I got the bright idea that I want to make pizza dough and grill pizzas on the fire (ever seen the guy at the Wooster Square fire up those beauties with the home grown tomato and mooootz?). So, the challenge to our friends who hail from the "home of the pizza" is to find me a fabulous recipe...we will dedicate it to you.
Wednesday, May 03, 2006
Update and Care Package ideas
I cannot believe that I haven't written in something like four days. I'm sure that does just wonders for my scant readership :) It's been really hectic here, I'm preparing for a big conference, my colleague in the public affairs office is out of town so I'm doing double time, and on top of that I'm throwing a party for a friend who has been in Iraq for over 1,000 days. The party is on Friday and will happen in conjunction with Cinco de Mayo, I even got the Baghdaddies to play (the IZ cover band).
Lately I have been getting a lot of email requests for care package ideas again. I emailed some of you back, but someone mentioned that she hadn't seen anything on the blog recently, so I suppose I'll mention some things here:
- Coffee beans (we have a grinder, we cannot get any good coffee here)
- Nuts and other healthy snacks
- pasta or other non-perishable food we can prepare for dinner parties
- oatmeal packets for breakfast (when we don't feel like cafeteria food)
- Ah, here's something - we're planning a Memorial Day bbq for our military friends, so if you plan on sending stuff this weekend, some decorations for MD would be great (plates, napkins, hats, banner - whatever can be used)
- As always, candy we can share with friends. Just note, it was 111 the other day, so if it's chocolate, wrap in plastic.
I that's all for now, I will write more soon.
Lately I have been getting a lot of email requests for care package ideas again. I emailed some of you back, but someone mentioned that she hadn't seen anything on the blog recently, so I suppose I'll mention some things here:
- Coffee beans (we have a grinder, we cannot get any good coffee here)
- Nuts and other healthy snacks
- pasta or other non-perishable food we can prepare for dinner parties
- oatmeal packets for breakfast (when we don't feel like cafeteria food)
- Ah, here's something - we're planning a Memorial Day bbq for our military friends, so if you plan on sending stuff this weekend, some decorations for MD would be great (plates, napkins, hats, banner - whatever can be used)
- As always, candy we can share with friends. Just note, it was 111 the other day, so if it's chocolate, wrap in plastic.
I that's all for now, I will write more soon.
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Viva Public Radio - KCRW rocks!
We just received our KCRW "premiums" in the mail. For those not familiar with this most excellent Santa Monica-based institution of music, news, food, funnies, political updates and intelligent journalism, please educate yourselves by visiting: www.kcrw.com.
And if you are not one of the fortunate few who calls Santa Monica home, no worries - you can listen to them 24-7 online. I used to do so in New Haven, sadly cannot here in Baghdad due to bandwidth restrictions.
For those looking to expand their music selections, may I suggest the 5 discs we recently received as a "thank you" for our annual subscription to this fabulous station, they are:
Sergio Mendes - Timeless
The Elected - Sun, Sun, Sun
KT Tunstall - Eye to the Telescope
Arctic Monkeys -
Kate Bush - Aerial
(And thanks to Barbara for resending the package, TWICE due to a minor error in the shipping address)
And if you are not one of the fortunate few who calls Santa Monica home, no worries - you can listen to them 24-7 online. I used to do so in New Haven, sadly cannot here in Baghdad due to bandwidth restrictions.
For those looking to expand their music selections, may I suggest the 5 discs we recently received as a "thank you" for our annual subscription to this fabulous station, they are:
Sergio Mendes - Timeless
The Elected - Sun, Sun, Sun
KT Tunstall - Eye to the Telescope
Arctic Monkeys -
Kate Bush - Aerial
(And thanks to Barbara for resending the package, TWICE due to a minor error in the shipping address)
Saturday, April 29, 2006
It's a small, small world
We had a Carnival party last night, 150 people on the roof-top bar above our restaurant, 25 liters of heavily improvised Sangria, 20 liters of Hurricane punch (*tastes like cough syrup*) and about 20 liters of a mystery pirate punch courtesy of our mixologists Chris and John. There was plenty of beer and wine to top off the festivities and the Salsa DJ from next door was plenty eager to entertain us all night long.
Somewhere between a Shiraz and a Pilsner, I was reminded once again how small the world really is - especially when working in the field of International Development, where everybody seems to have been EVERYwhere. Turns out one of our French chefs here in Baghdad, JP, is a partner in Presidential Nile Cruises, the company we did our Nile cruise with last summer. Too funny, he said when we're ready to go explore the untouched wonders off the Sudanese coast to let him know, he'll hook us up.
Somewhere between a Shiraz and a Pilsner, I was reminded once again how small the world really is - especially when working in the field of International Development, where everybody seems to have been EVERYwhere. Turns out one of our French chefs here in Baghdad, JP, is a partner in Presidential Nile Cruises, the company we did our Nile cruise with last summer. Too funny, he said when we're ready to go explore the untouched wonders off the Sudanese coast to let him know, he'll hook us up.
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