San Francisco dreaming...

We recently had the wonderful opportunity to spend a few days in Marin County, just north of San Francisco. As always when on mission, one of the things we miss the most is the outdoors, therefore always dedicate a few days of our vacations to one of our favorite activities: diving, mountain biking, snowboarding or hiking. This time, we decided to mountain bike and booked ourselves into a lovely bed and breakfast, The Mountain Home Inn, in the quaint town of Mill Valley, located on Mt. Tamalpais, the "birthplace of mountain biking" in the 1970s.

Our room had a jacuzzi tub and wood burning fire place, and a balcony with a stunning view of the mountains as well as the city. We usually got up early in the mornings and went for a ride up to the top of Mt. Tam, to return to a wonderfully home cooked breakfast (selections included healthy options such as fruit and oatmeal, and not-so-healthy, though decadent flavors such as grits with ham and onion, topped in a sunny-side-up egg).

Days were spent cruising around Point Reyes, eating oysters, more mountain biking, and of course, a day of wine tasting in Sonoma and Napa. What a wonderful reminder it was for where we started off little over ten years ago. We had lunch at the exact same cafe on the water in Sausaulito, where we ate the afternoon before Chris proposed, and debated driving into San Francisco to eat at the famed Bardelli's Italian. On the first night however, we decided to stay local, and instead drove into Mill Valley in search of a meal. We stumbled upon a lovely Italian place on a corner overlooking the main square, called Vasco's. I don't know, perhaps it was the 300 bottles of wine on display in the window that sealed the deal, or perhaps fate...for when we sat down, following our wine and starter orders, Chris, as he so very often does, flips the menu over to read the story of said Vasco's. Turns out, Paul Lazzareschi named his Mill Valley restaurant after one Vasco Lazzareschi his father and, get this, owner of the very same Bardelli's where Chris and I cemented our engagement all those years before. Coincidence? We think not.

Taken at the spot where Chris proposed to me ten years before.

Dining on oysters California style - BBQ'ed!

The sun setting over San Francisco, as seen from our balcony.

Happy Cows!

Took this shot driving around Point Reyes. Just love the expression on the cow. Wonder if they know they live in some of the most beautiful, pristine coastline in the country!! Lucky cows.

The Blue Mosque

I decided to visit the Rawze-e-Sharif Mosque in Mazar e-Sharif today, one of many known as Blue Mosque. Founded in 1512, the mosque occupies a huge expanse of land in the center of the city. The grounds are covered with gardens, fountains, reflection pools and picnic spots. On any given weekend day, hundreds of families, cripples, children, beggars, and the odd entrepreneur (like the guys with the scales and measuring sticks offering their services at a small fee) gather to enjoy a picnic, feed the pigeons, visit the mosque and simply hang out in the company of friends.

We circled the mosque in a counter-clockwise rotation, pausing to take photos and enjoy the images of families occupying the bright blue picnic tables under pine trees. With two expat women in tow, my Australian friend remarked that he does not usually attract this much attention, pointing to the sporadic hordes of young people who follow us for a few steps, or simply yelling "salaam alaykum" in the passing.

I was blown away by the sheer size and scope of the mosque and in particular by the intricate tile work that covers the entire system of buildings. We did not enter the mosque grounds, opting to arrange a special visit with permission before doing so. Instead, we marvelled at the outside of this magnificent structure believed by Shi'a Muslims to house the remains of the fourth caliph and son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed, revered as the first Shi'a imam. Many, however, still believe that his body is actually buried in Najaf, Iraq.

This old woman

It is not easy to get good photographs of women in Afghanistan. They are notoriously camera-shy and frequently cover their faces whenever someone has a camera. I am extremely careful when I photograph women, and always ask their permission. But when I do get a willing subject I try to use the opportunity to portray the beauty and the variety of the women in this incredibly diverse country. I could not help but fall in love with this old woman's face, not to mention her bubbly personality....

Grassroots groups aim to resolve conflicts

Photo: After a tie for the position of deputy representative, there was a run-off election to determine the winner.

Yesterday I attended the inauguration of the female side of the Conflict Mitigation Committee of one of the sites where we are presently implementing a conflict resolution project. The premise is simple, two communities are in conflict over natural resources (in this instance the right to a river that flows near both communities), we set up a conflict mitigation committee that comprises 50% men and 50% women with equal representation for each committee. It is the task of this committee to conduct meetings to actively try and mitigate the conflict and come up with a solution. A self-identified, jointly-implemented development project acts as catalyst for the communities to work together to improving the conditions for both. These are some photos from the event; this is democracy at its truest grassroots level as women vote.

Photo: Ballots are counted for the positions of Chair, deputy Chair, and Secretary

Anyone who has worked in Afghanistan will tell you the significance of an event such as this. Not only for the overall participation of Afghans in their future and the governing of their communities, but more so even, because of the participation of women in the process. What made this particular event even more significant, was the difference between the two communities, one which is predominantly Pashtu, the vast majority ethnic group of Afghanistan, while the other is the much-discriminated against Kuchi people. In this unique instance, the mostly nomadic Kuchi community settled in this area many years ago, and is now embroiled in a conflict over natural resources with the newer, yet more powerful and more educated Pashtu community. So to bring the women from these starkly different backgrounds together in a room, and to have them vote for a joint committee to represent all of their interests, is to say the least, remarkable.

Street-side

I share some of my recent photographs with you. These are taken in Maymana City bazaar. The young man was very keen to have his photograph taken.

The older man in the next photograph was sorting through a pile of potatoes with his colleagues when we approached for some greetings and pleasantries.

The final picture depicts the early-morning bargaining at the carpet bazaar between local women from the villages who come to the city to sell their kilims to the men who run the carpet bazaar shops. If you come in early enough you can buy directly from the women. Average price for a 2x1m kilim from the women is about $20.

Photo pick?

I took this shot through the back window of a circa 1970s Jeep while in Maymana City, Faryab Province. I love the expression on the men's faces, and once in Photoshop I got to playing around with different focal points and hues...I would like to get your comments on which one you prefer - I have been thinking about submitting some of my photographs to amateur outlets - also, if you have any suggestions of publications that might be looking for submissions, or competitions and such, do share.

Here we go, I present four different options of the same photograph:

Option 1:

Option 2:

Option 3:

Option 4:

Long overdue...

...I was reminded by a friend yesterday that it has been far too long since I last wrote. I do apologize to all of you for neglecting the writing, and in particular the photographs that I know you enjoy even more than my blabbering about work and the heat in Mazar.

Alas, I have been extremely busy with new projects and a lot of traveling between bases, which subsequently resulted in a few uninvited friends taking up residence in my tummy. After a host of blood and other tests, the German Diagnostic Center in Kabul confirmed what I suspected....parasite. Only, there was not one, nope - I manage to get four. With a suitcase full of antibiotics and a very unpredictable stomach I set off once again for Mazar e-Sharif.

I am excited to report that we have finally broken ground on a Cultural Center in Mazar e-Sharif that has been in the pipeline since 2005. Additional new projects include a Safe Play Area funded by UNICEF - essentially a play park for children who are at a high risk of injury by unexploded ordinance (UXO) - including land mines. You may recall I mentioned that Afghanistan remains one of the most heavily mined countries in the world, and all along the highways in the provinces, one can see the painted rocks placed by de-mining organizations to warn residents and vehicles about the potential threat.

For the next few days I am in Kabul to meet with a variety of donors and partner agencies. It is always nice to spend a few days with Chris and I find it recharges me for the extended (average of three weeks) periods that we find ourselves in different locations. I also have the opportunity to go to the clinic to see whether any of my friends have checked out of the Bacteria B&B in my stomach.

To make up for my extended absence, I share some of my favorite photos of the last few weeks with you.

A colleague in an agricultural field in Faryab Province, August 2007

Yes, Afghanistan is painful, but it can be breathtaking too.

Girl with loom, Faryab Province August 2007

The boy in Kabul

On my way to the airport this morning, I couldn't help but notice the young boy curiously observing me from the house nextdoor. The shots were taken through a Kabul dust-stained window, but you can clearly see why I couldn't resist.

The man at the mosque

Shot this one evening driving home from the office. The Blue Mosque is usually abuzz with people in the gardens, children running around, and vendors selling their goods on the sidewalks.

Heavy load

I snapped this sequence of photographs near the big mosque in Kabul. I have long been amazed at the size of some of the loads that the Afghans carry...here you see a man helping another to his feet as he struggles to lift a heavy load of goods onto his back.

Coming to Mazar

It was a beautiful drive up from Kabul to Mazar, and I think that Samangan province might even be more beautiful than the Salang pass which I did not think was possible. But please, you be the judge of that....and more...

The paintbrush speaks up

A piece of art in a cultural center depicting

Saddam Hussein behind bars

Wise man

A village elder that discussed the needs of this

Rania community with us

Lady of the House

Beautiful Kurdish mother and wife.