Thirty and kicking ....

September 30th, 2007 - my 30th birthday. I am celebrating (stuck at if you can call it that) at the lovely Serena Hotel in Kabul where Chris and I spent last night. He has since left the hotel in a cloud of mystery and I have been ordered to enjoy the rest of the day lounging in the spa and read my book by the pool, have lunch and just enjoy the time to myself. A vehicle will drop my clothes off here in the next few hours, and then return to collect me at 7pm for the night's mysterious festivities.

Over a nice big breakfast Chris asked me what wisdoms I had to bestow of the past decade, to which I responded that I was trying not to be melo-dramatic and therefore wanted to refrain from entering into too much of a melancholy flashback. One thing that did come to mind is that, apart from these milestones being somewhat arbitrary; clumsily allowing us the opportunity to divide our lives into neat chunks for easy review and sometimes regret; the main pitfall at such a juncture, and I believe especially one's 30th, is to look back and have the overwhelming feeling that youth is lost and one did not achieve enough to warrant 30 years. I believe both Chris and I are fortunate in that sense. While the lines are slowly appearing despite the SPF 30s, and the greys are attacking his temples more violently than before, we are definitely far from "grown-up", and more importantly, have tried our utmost to pack as much into the past thirty years.

Today, at thirty, I have lived on four continents, worked in two war zones, met four Nobel Peace Laureates, witnessed the democratization of my beloved country, visited almost 25 others, am licenced to fly and dive deep into the blue ocean. I have more friends than I can count, a loving family, and married to my true love. What more can a girl want?

And for the next decade he asked? Perhaps another Masters, a real home, 25 more countries, and yes - a child.

(I'm pretty much up for anything, as long as it is not boring!)

This old woman

It is not easy to get good photographs of women in Afghanistan. They are notoriously camera-shy and frequently cover their faces whenever someone has a camera. I am extremely careful when I photograph women, and always ask their permission. But when I do get a willing subject I try to use the opportunity to portray the beauty and the variety of the women in this incredibly diverse country. I could not help but fall in love with this old woman's face, not to mention her bubbly personality....

Grassroots groups aim to resolve conflicts

Photo: After a tie for the position of deputy representative, there was a run-off election to determine the winner.

Yesterday I attended the inauguration of the female side of the Conflict Mitigation Committee of one of the sites where we are presently implementing a conflict resolution project. The premise is simple, two communities are in conflict over natural resources (in this instance the right to a river that flows near both communities), we set up a conflict mitigation committee that comprises 50% men and 50% women with equal representation for each committee. It is the task of this committee to conduct meetings to actively try and mitigate the conflict and come up with a solution. A self-identified, jointly-implemented development project acts as catalyst for the communities to work together to improving the conditions for both. These are some photos from the event; this is democracy at its truest grassroots level as women vote.

Photo: Ballots are counted for the positions of Chair, deputy Chair, and Secretary

Anyone who has worked in Afghanistan will tell you the significance of an event such as this. Not only for the overall participation of Afghans in their future and the governing of their communities, but more so even, because of the participation of women in the process. What made this particular event even more significant, was the difference between the two communities, one which is predominantly Pashtu, the vast majority ethnic group of Afghanistan, while the other is the much-discriminated against Kuchi people. In this unique instance, the mostly nomadic Kuchi community settled in this area many years ago, and is now embroiled in a conflict over natural resources with the newer, yet more powerful and more educated Pashtu community. So to bring the women from these starkly different backgrounds together in a room, and to have them vote for a joint committee to represent all of their interests, is to say the least, remarkable.

Street-side

I share some of my recent photographs with you. These are taken in Maymana City bazaar. The young man was very keen to have his photograph taken.

The older man in the next photograph was sorting through a pile of potatoes with his colleagues when we approached for some greetings and pleasantries.

The final picture depicts the early-morning bargaining at the carpet bazaar between local women from the villages who come to the city to sell their kilims to the men who run the carpet bazaar shops. If you come in early enough you can buy directly from the women. Average price for a 2x1m kilim from the women is about $20.

Marking Ramadan

Dear friends, once again I have been quiet on the airwaves. As you can imagine, it is not for a lack of activity, work or excitement. The good news is that this past weekend, I had a little (well, perhaps not so "little" visitor - and I am not referring to the parasitical type that have taken residence in me as of late) - Chris came up for the long weekend that marks the start of the holy month of Ramadan (or Ramazan) as it is called here in Afghanistan.

Ramadan started last week Thursday, albeit not with some confusion surrounding the actual start date. A bit tricky to run an office when you're told, "tomorrow could be a holiday", or it "could be the next day", but we won't know until 2am. Turns out Muslims wait for the official word from Saudi Arabia - and whatever happened, two radio stations in Afghanistan reported the date to be on two different days. Alas, we are now officially in Ramadan, which means shorter working days for the staff, as they fast from sun-up to sundown.

Ramadan lasts for 30 days and is intended to "purify and train body and soul" and to strive for Taqwa or "self-restraint." Certain people are exempt from fasting and include: Minors, the elderly, the sick*, people traveling*, pregnant women*, breastfeeding women*, menstruating women* and the mentally disabled. marked by the celebration of Eid that involves a lot of socializing with family and friends, and joyful eating and drinking.
(* are expected to fast an equivalent number of days afterwards)

Ramadan is divided into three sections: From days 1-10 we see "God's Mercy"; from days 11-20 "God's Forgiveness" and from 20-30 "Salvation from hell fire." Ramadan also reminds the person fasting to think of those who are hungry and suffering, and encourages the assistance of people who have less through charity and donations. Muslims are also discouraged from wasting food and encouraged to practice social responsibility.

Haleh is Freed!

Some of you may recall my post about the Iranian scholar (Free Haleh! May 15, 2007) who was imprisoned by the Iranian government earlier this year while visiting her mother. I am very happy to report today that she has indeed been freed from the notoriously brutal prison where they kept her for the last few months. She has since flown to Austria, and this BBC article reports that she is due back in the US shortly.

Scholars and activists across the globe continuously face persecution for their beliefs and their work, always remember there are many people out there actively engaged in fighting for the freedoms we so often take for granted.

Happy Labor Day!

Hope everyone has a good labor day - I understand the west is suffering from a heat wave at the moment, hm - must make it feel lot more like Afghanistan! No day off for us here, we continue to labor away on the supposed holiday. Hey, at least you can enjoy the day guilt-free since a recent survey by the International Labor Organization (ILO) puts American productivity at the top of the global list - by a far stretch.